Charming Comfort at The Bush Hotel in the Heart of Farnham
The South of England never ceases to delight. There’s a quiet richness to its towns and villages – steepe in history and framed by beautiful countryside. And even when you’re not expecting it, more fascinating stories unfold before you.
Today we’re heading into Surrey, just a short drive from Central London to the quintessential market town of Farnham. Our home for the night is the Bush Hotel – intriguingly named and, as we are soon discover, full of stories of its own.
But first, a wander through Farnham. This thriving town has been quietly going about its business for over a thousand years. Its roots go back to Saxon times, though it was the Normans who left behind its most enduring landmark – Farnham Castle. Built in 1138 by the Bishop of Winchester, a grandson of William the Conqueror, the castle still watches over the town from its hilltop perch.
By the medieval period, Farnham became a key stop on the route between London and Winchester. It flourished as a market town, and from the 17th century grew into a centre of hop growing and brewing. At its peak, there were six working breweries here. After a dip, the craft beer scene is enjoying a resurgence with three local breweries in the vicinity. There are also plenty of delightful pubs and bars where you can sample the local brew. Including the stylish bar at our hotel.
The Bush Hotel has a long and fascinating history of its own. The origin of its curious name are disputed, but many believe it stems from the custom of tavern keepers hanging an ivy bush outside to signal wine was served within. The earliest recorded mention of the inn is from 1618 though it’s thought there’s been a tavern on the site as far back as 1100.
And there’s something unique about the hotel. It’s set in three acres of ground, so has a lovely garden and the feel of a country house about it – and it also sits right on Farnham High Street. The best combo of peace and bustle you could wish for.
We’re staying in the grandest of suites on the second floor – a charming blend of old-world elegance and contemporary style. There’s a plush, generous bed dressed in crisp white linen, a sleek modern bathroom with bathtub and walk-in shower, a separate seating area and desk and a spacious walk-in wardrobe. Best of all, light floods in through the three enormous windows which overlook the beautiful garden. The epitome of luxury and the sort of space you never want to leave.
But dinner calls – downstairs in the Oak Lounge – the hotel’s oldest part, beautifully modernised but still full of secrets. Frescoes discovered during the 1931 renovations line some of the walls – believed to have been painted by a guest in exchange for their stay. Overhead, a rare indoor sundial (yes, really) adds more intrigue. Found in 1887 and thought to be from the same period as the frescoes, it likely caught the rays reflected from a garden pond below. Fascinating tales to ponder as we peruse the menu.
The menu marries classic flavours with contemporary touches, showcasing seasonal ingredients. My crayfish and mango noodle salad, brightened by peas and edamame, is fresh and light, the pea and mint soup bursts with summer, while steak and chicken dishes arrive with fresh vegetables and velvety sauces. We finish with one of the finest apple tarte tatins, the perfect end to an evening rich in stories (including ghostly ones) and flavours, followed by a restful night in the peace of our upstairs sanctuary. And no we didn’t see any ghosts.
Our night at the Bush Hotel and time spent exploring Farnham’s charming streets, turned out to be an unexpected joy – and something of a history lesson, too. Spending time in one of England’s ancient towns made the past come alive. And also gave us an excuse to treat ourselves to some of the best hospitality on offer with the warmest of welcomes. A truly irresistible combination.
Words by Sandy Cadiz-Smith
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