Today it’s time to venture into a part of London I know little about. I worked in the area some 20 years ago, but as is always the case in this great city, things change rapidly. The arrival of the glorious Elizabeth line in 2022 has transformed the journey, whisking me to Farringdon station with speed and ease. In plenty of time for our pub lunch in Clerkenwell.
First, some history. Clerkenwell is named after an actual ‘Clerk’s Well’ – a medieval well where parish clerks performed religious mystery plays (that does sound mysterious).
The area is home to the House of Detention – a former Victorian prison which lies under its streets and is a favourite filming location with its mix of old lanes, warehouses and Victorian architecture. It’s also surprisingly leafy for inner London with lots of hidden gardens and squares. All of which means it’s well worth taking a pre-lunch amble to soak up some of that spirit.
Clerkenwell was also home to one of the largest Italian communities in the UK in the 19th and early 20th centuries. And some of this is still apparent in the Hotel Indigo which is home to the Sabini bar, named after Charles Sabini, the 1920s racecourse gangster.
The hotel is connected to the pub we’re having lunch in – the Hat & Feathers. This superbly named, Grade II Listed Victorian pub has recently reopened after more than a decade. It’s been lovingly restored and retains lots of its original features, resulting in a cosy, welcoming space.
The new restaurant next door is beautifully decorated in shades of green with floral motifs and plants scattered throughout. We’re soon occupying one of the large, comfortable booths, perusing the menu.
It’s the sort of pub menu that makes me happy – a comforting roll-call of British classics – fish and chips, hearty signature pies, steak, pork belly – all dishes that promise satisfaction. There’s also a decent, international wine list to choose from.
We begin with a Scotch egg and a plate of garlic, chilli prawns. I find it extremely difficult to resist a Scotch egg, especially a properly made one (my instinct told me it would be one). This version is superb – crisp on the outside, with that soft eggy centre, served with wonderfully picante piccalilli. The prawns arrive, plump and juicy, bursting with garlic and chilli with a whisper of ginger. A wonderful beginning.
For mains we go straight for the signature pie – today it’s chicken and mushroom – and a ribeye with chips and Béarnaise sauce. Two highly satisfying, tasty plates of food – the pie with its creamy filling and luscious pastry, the chips piping hot and perfectly crisp; the Bernaise delicately rich and the steak cooked to a spot-on medium-rare.
We polish everything off and find we’ve no space for dessert, though the list is tempting – brownies, Eton Mess, cheesecake and ice cream. There’s always next time.
Because I can’t help feeling there’s so much more to uncover in this historic and seldom-visited (by me anyway) area of London. How I love being reminded of the sheer abundance of wonderful pubs this city holds – each one with its own character and charm. How I wish I could visit them all, one lunch at a time.
The Hat & Feathers is at 2 Clerkenwell Road, London EC1. It’s close to both Farringdon and Barbican stations.
Find out more at www.hatandfeathers.co.uk
Words by Sandy Cadiz-Smith
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