South American Warmth at Tigermilk London: A Vibrant Escape from the City’s Grey Skies
It’s been a glorious year in London – a long and warm summer followed by a surprisingly mild, dry autumn (so far). So it’s all a bit of a shock to wake up to the season’s first truly autumnal morning – leaden skies, drizzle hanging in the air and that lingering half-light that never quite turns into day.
Luckily, I’ve discovered the perfect antidote to such gloom – lunch at Tigermilk London, a newcomer in Charing Cross Road which opened its doors this June.. It’s just a minute’s walk from Tottenham Court Road tube station – ideal for escaping the rain.
Walking into Tigermilk feels like being whisked away to a sun-soaked South American hacienda. The space is designed in vibrant greens, warm mustards and earthy terracottas. Along one wall, a sparkling bar beckons invitingly, and palm trees punctuate the room. Within moments, the grey London drizzle fades from memory.
The menu is a celebration of the warm flavours of South America using the freshest of produce. There’s plenty to ponder, and contemplation, of course, calls for a cocktail. I am particularly fond of a pisco sour and Tigermilk’s twist – the Pisco ’n’ Roses is made with pisco, elderflower liqueur, rose syrup, lime and a frothy egg white foam. It’s surprising, light, floral and citrussy – a glass of sunshine.
The menu is divided into chiqui (small) bites, starters, mains, sharers, ceviches, asados (barbecued or grilled dishes) and sides. We’re determined to do the place justice and taste as much as we can.
Naturally we begin with a ceviche. The salmon tiradito arrives glistening – luscious slices of fresh salmon bathed in a creamy, spicy, aji amarillo leche de tigre and topped with pomegranate, coriander and a splash of lime. The leche de tigre, which the restaurant is named for, is the citrus-based liquid that ‘cooks’ the raw fish. Tangy, savoury and spicy, and faintly milky (hence its name). No actual tigers involved.
Some of the dishes on the menu are playfully named, like the Tuna Turner (get it?). Finely chopped, marinated tuna atop a crispy corn tostada, layered with guacamole, spicy green sauce, pickled red onion, and coriander, a sublime combination of textures and flavours.
Then there’s Everyday I’m Trufflin’ – a baby quesadilla oozing with three cheeses and truffles. Meltingly delicious with an earthy truffle hit it’s one incredibly moreish toasty. Of course, we have to sample the guacamole, luxuriously smooth with beautifully ripe avocado, lime, red onion and olive oil and served with crisp tortilla chips. Beautifully simple and satisfying.
By now we’re feeling pretty replete (the portions are generous), but we can’t resist a dish from the Grilled section – pollo asado. British chicken is marinated in the restaurant’s special spice blend and chargrilled over a high heat. Served with more spicy green sauce on the side, it’s smoky and melt-in-the-mouth.
Dessert is a shared passionfruit (maracuya) tiramisu. The tangy passionfruit topping adds another dimension to a classic pud, cutting through the creaminess beautifully.
We don’t make it to the Sharing Plates this time. But with delights like slow-roasted lamb, overnight-cooked barbacoa beef, and a t-bone al agave y chile (served with a trio of salsas), I can’t wait to get together a group of friends and go for a serious carnivorous feast – and a few more of those cocktails, of course.
Oh, and there’s a lovely wine list with a wide array of Chilean, Argentinian, French and Spanish wines to choose from.
Tigermilk is a little piece of sunshine in London, no matter what the weather’s doing outside. The perfect escape from the drizzle and a reminder of how a great restaurant experience can transform any grey afternoon.
Words by Sandy Cadiz-Smith
127 Charing Cross Rd | London WC2H 0EW
bookings@tigermilkgroup.com
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