A Sunny Day in St. Malo: Seafood, Style & People-Watching in Brittany

Here I am in sunny St. Malo – a stunning walled city in the heart of Brittany, France. On a bright Saturday in June, my husband and I took his beloved vintage car, Margo, for a drive to explore this historic gem.

Originally founded by monks in the 6th century, St. Malo later became a stronghold for privateers – French corsairs sanctioned by the king to raid enemy ships. The city’s wealth and fierce independence earned it the nickname “The City of Corsairs.” Despite being heavily bombed during World War II, the old town was lovingly rebuilt stone by stone, preserving its medieval charm.

Today, the weather is glorious and has certainly brought out the crowds. The cobbled streets are full of charm, lined with artisan shops, independent boutiques, and lively cafés. Pavement bistros spill into the sunshine, with people soaking up the convivial atmosphere. It’s the perfect blend of coastal character, rich history, and French flair — and we’re loving every moment.

After wandering through the many nooks and crannies of the old town, picking up the obligatory fridge magnet and soaking in the views, we decided it was time for lunch. It was just after 1:30pm — cutting it fine, as the French are famously particular about food service hours. A quick tip: be sure to stop for lunch before 2pm, or risk going hungry!

We ended up at Fidelis, a stylish restaurant perfectly placed on one of the main dining streets. We chose it purely because we spotted a free outdoor table — and with so many tempting places to eat, we didn’t even check the menu! With a cracking view of one of the town’s busiest thoroughfares, we were in our element. People-watching is definitely our thing… unashamedly nosy.

A kind waitress offered us the menu in English — it must have been obvious! Our pasty skin and sun-kissed (read: slightly red) shoulders probably gave us away… or perhaps it was our rather hopeless attempts at French. The menu was concise, as many French menus are, and we decided to share a plate of oysters to start. Fresh and zingy, with a squeeze of lemon and a dash of sherry vinegar — absolutely sublime.

Not in the mood for anything too heavy, we opted to share three starters. First up: mini beef tacos — crunchy, flavourful, with a rich spiced beef filling and a nice kick, balanced beautifully with sour cream and creamy guacamole.

Next came the white asparagus, served with crème fraîche and paper-thin radish. I’m not usually a fan of asparagus, but the white variety might have converted me — it was so delicately tender and subtly sweet.

And then, the standout dish of the day: red tuna ceviche. Served with an avocado and watercress cream and packed with that moreish umami hit — OMG, this was the dish. Light, fresh, and utterly unforgettable. I’m still dreaming about it.

Feeling satiated but not uncomfortably full — I hate that feeling — we meandered back to Margo, our trusty old convertible Merc, and cruised the scenic ten-minute journey back to camp with the roof down.

If you’re visiting St. Malo this summer — and I highly recommend you do — be sure to look up Fidelis. It’s an absolute must – beautiful restaurant with crazy good food and fantastic service. Just get there before 1:30pm sharp! And if you do go… tell them I sent you.

Words by Joanne Brook-Smith

Find Fidelis

10 rue Jacques Cartier
35400 Saint-Malo
France