With over 10 years of success under its belt, an overflowing awards cabinet and Hollywood clientele (Rebel Wilson is a big fan), it was only a matter of time before the Michelin-approved Tharavadu looked to expand.
Since launching back in 2014, the celebrated Leeds establishment has been recognised as one of the UK’s best Indian restaurants and has an army of regulars from Yorkshire and beyond.
When they announced a new project, Uyare, the foodie world waited with bated breath. Residing in the fancy pants rooftop venue above Victoria Gate (previously occupied by Issho), Uyare promised elevated Kerala cuisine and innovative cocktails in a stylish setting.
This is a far cry from their humble Mill Hill venue, which is all the more charming for its simplicity and dedication to authentic food. So, does it work? First impressions as we arrived for the preview evening were good. We were greeted by a friendly and enthusiastic team who made us feel welcome as they showed us around and ran through the concept.
In terms of layout, not much has changed since it was Issho – but that’s not a bad thing. The bar area and outdoor rooftop terrace has always been a highlight and it’s still one of the coolest places in Leeds to sip cocktails al fresco.
We ordered a round of the Spicy Margaritas, which are nice and boozy with the right amount of spice. The drinks menu has been carefully curated by mixologist extraordinaire Filippos Filippopoulos from Tabula Rasa, who has taken inspiration from the five elements.
Expect lots of bold, spice-led flavours, a dash of smoke and a good dose of theatre. They also serve a mean take on a classic Old Fashioned, which is my all-time favourite. You could come here just for the drinks alone.
Moving to our table in the restaurant, our waitress was quick to bring us a glass of wine as we checked out the menu. Unlike your average Indian restaurant menu, which can go on forever and take an age to peruse, the Uyare team has gone for quality over quantity.
Small, yet perfectly formed, their offering is full of temptation which will leave you wanting to return to try more. We began with the pre-meal snacks and pickles (£6.75), which in a nutshell is a posh pickle tray – and it’s fantastic.
Comprising of a colourful selection of crisp Pappadavada, Pakkavada, Kaya Varunthathathu (don’t ask how you pronounce any of these, just know they taste delicious) and Poppadoms with some dreamy pickles and chutneys, this assortment was more addictive than a tube of Pringles after one too many Friday night beers.
For starters, we shared the Kanthari Chicken (£7), which is grilled to perfection and infused with warming green chillies, fresh mint and coriander and complemented with a side of avocado-raw mango chutney. As something of a heat head, I didn’t find this overly spicy, but it did have a bit of a kick.
The Kanava Kurumilagu (£8) is another hot pick from the Signature Bites menu. Consisting of delicate squid slices marinated in ground Kerala spices, stir-fried with onion, bell pepper, garlic, curry leaves and crushed black pepper, this was pure perfection. The squid was tender and the spices once again hit the sweet spot of delivering heat and flavour in equal measure.
We enjoyed some more wine as our mains were prepared, which turned out to be a fine selection of both whites and reds. The Rioja Crianza and the Sancerre Les Perriers both come highly recommended.
The Grilled Stuffed Sea Bass (£17) arrived beautifully presented, stuffed with spiced coconut shrimp and smothered in a mild curry sauce. Absolute perfection. The Chemmeen Roast (£16) is another choice pick for seafood lovers, featuring plump and juicy tiger prawns simmered with onions, tomatoes and coconut milk, then garnished with cashew nuts.
We enjoyed a side of the fragrant Carrot Coconut Rice, which was infused with grated carrots and fried cashews.
Final verdict
The Leeds dining scene has been somewhat flat these past few years, having suffered greatly with all the post-pandemic closures. Uyare is the kick up the backside it needs right now, delivering a place to enjoy bold new flavours in a sumptuous setting with great service. Yes, it’s fancier than Tharavadu, but it’s not fussy and there’s no pretentiousness often associated with rooftop dining here.
This place is passionate about delivering exceptional cuisine at a reasonable price (just go easy on the wine) in a space that’s just as perfect for a date night as it is a family occasion. Having enjoyed several memorable meals in Tharavadu, I can’t wait to take my loved ones here to let them experience a little slice of culinary heaven.
Uyare Roof Top Restaurant, Third Floor, Victoria Gate, Leeds LS2 7AU
Words and photography by Fletch.