I love a city break and I have a bucket list of cities in Europe and further afield I would like to visit, but the UK has much to offer when it comes to a weekend away.
The big hitters are always worth a trip, London, Manchester, Newcastle, Liverpool, Edinburgh – the list goes on, but there are many cities that just don’t get the press and in my mind, Chester is the unsung hero of the UK city break destination. Nestled in the northwest of England, close to the border with Wales, Chester exudes historical charm and vibrant culture.
As one of Britain’s best-preserved walled cities, Chester offers a fascinating glimpse into the rich tapestry of English history and architecture. Established as a Roman fort named Deva Victrix in AD 79, Chester boasts ancient remnants, with walls nearly two miles long providing scenic city views connecting visitors to its storied past.
At the city’s heart lies the magnificent Chester Cathedral, a testament to medieval craftsmanship with exquisite Gothic architecture, tranquil cloisters, and beautifully landscaped gardens.
The Rows, unique two-tiered galleries of shops and eateries dating back to the Middle Ages, are a defining feature, offering a distinctive shopping experience. The renowned Chester Racecourse, established in 1539 and the oldest in the UK, hosts popular equestrian events and adds to the city’s sociable appeal. Additionally, Chester Zoo, one of the country’s largest and most beloved zoological gardens, offers family-friendly exploration of diverse wildlife.
I have visited Chester many times over the years, one of my closest friends lived there for a long time and I have lots of happy memories of exploring the city walls and enjoying a cocktail or two in one of Chester’s many stylish wine bars. The shopping is great too, you will find many well known high street brands alongside a fantastic selection of independent boutiques and artisans.
I expected the city to be a little quieter than usual on the Saturday we visited in mid January but how wrong I was! Despite the bleak weather and time of year, the streets were bustling as we headed to our weekend abode, Hotel Indigo, ideally located in the centre of Chester and just a short stroll from the Cathedral and the picturesque River Dee.
I have stayed at Indigo hotels before and always found them rather charming, Chester is no different. The entrance and reception is beautifully turned out with warm hues and plush furniture offering a welcome retreat from the bitter cold weather.
Seamlessly checked in, we head to our suite on the first floor and I was delighted! A sweeping room eclectically and tastefully designed with beautiful details, and friends, you know I love the details. The thing I like about the rooms at Indigo hotels is the thought, they are exquisitely executed, somebody has really taken the time to create that space with comfort and relaxation in mind. There are stylish design details everywhere, from the artwork on the walls to the old fashioned telephone beside the bed. The mini bar is full of treats including pre-mixed cocktails and beers alongside soft drinks and fresh milk – I hate it when upscale hotels leave UHT milk portions on the tea tray, it’s just bad form! Here there is cafetiere coffee and plenty of tea options, delicious biscuits and even a huge bag of popcorn! Crack open a cocktail, get a movie on the huge flatscreen and thats me done! Alas, my husband had other ideas so after freshening up in the stunning bathroom boasting a huge wet-room style shower and all the luxury bathing products one could wish for, we headed out into the bleak January weather for a wander around the city.
After whiling away the afternoon shopping and enjoying a cocktail or two, I was glad to get back to Indigo and the hotel’s own in-house restaurant, The Forge.
Awarded two AA Rosettes for Culinary Excellence in 2023, the Forge offers a unique dining experience in stylish surrounds. The restaurant is very smart with rustic yet elegant decor creating a welcoming atmosphere, perfect for both intimate dinners and special celebrations. The open pass is a great feature and offers diners a little showmanship as the talented chefs cook up a storm and call ‘service’ intermittently.
The menu is essentially a steak house offering, The Forge work in collaboration with Aubrey Allen, a third-generation family business and suppliers to the Royal household, who supply our ethically sourced, naturally produced meats.
Whilst the menu is meat heavy – there are well thought through fish and vegetarian dishes too. We chose to start with Bubble & Squeak Croquettes served with beef fat emulsion and Pigs in Blankets with honey and mustard glaze which we shared. Both items are listed as ‘Snacks’ on the menu but don’t be fooled, the portion sizes were huge. The croquettes were simply delicious, and the sausages were succulent and juicy, both dishes were tasty and well presented.
We skipped starters but there are some very tempting offerings: Cured Chalk Stream Trout with
Preserved lemon and caper puree or BBQ Wood Pigeon Cranberry with dark chocolate, variegated kale, and hazelnut, are just two examples.
But the jewel in the crown of this menu is the meat and I was so glad I saved myself for the dry-aged ribeye steak served with a delightful chimichurri, pickled shallots and watercress accompaniment. Cooked to perfection, I could have cut the steak with a butter knife! The right amount of marbling gave great flavour and I savoured every bite, the best steak I have had in a long time! I insist you order the ‘Dirty Mash’ with bacon jam on the side, chef’s kiss! Across the table and in a left field move from my husband, he opted for the Merrifield Duck Breast served with BBQ swede, pearl barley and sour pear. This was a brazen choice for a steak man who suffers with food envy but it worked out well and he snaffled it that quickly I didn’t even get a chance to stick my fork in! It was presented beautifully and also, cooked to perfection – according to his lordship.
Dessert was a tough one as we were both fit to burst, but alas, we managed a very moreish deconstructed Crème Brûlée which we cracked with delight and fought with our spoons over.
The service, food and ambience at The Forge is exemplary, the team have created a very desirable dining destination and it works like a perfectly oiled machine. The front of house team know their stuff and offer knowledgeable yet unintrusive service. The chefs clearly know their onions and as my husband would say – they knock it out of the park. The restaurant is well thought of across the city and beyond and I can see why, it was fantastic.
If you have plans to visit Chester this year, do yourself a favour and make a reservation at Hotel Indigo there is no better place to stay in this wonderful city. Tell them I sent you.
Words by Joanne Brook-Smith
Hotel Indigo Chester, Grosvenor Park Road, Chester, CH1 1QQ
Contact reservations@chester.hotelindigo.com or Tel: 01244 735745