Inside Tigermilk Spitalfields: Bold Latin American-Inspired Food in East London

Today we’re heading east to a fascinating part of London, around Spitalfields Market. This legendary market was first established in the 17th century and for centuries was a bustling centre of trade in fresh fruit, vegetables and meat, serving the ever-growing population of East London. The surrounding neighbourhood was a busy working-class commercial district, filled with traders, craftsmen, workshops and densely packed housing.

The area is also known for a much darker chapter in London’s history. It was around these streets that Jack the Ripper murdered some of his victims in 1888. We even stop for a pre-lunch drink in a pub where two of the women were drinking shortly before they were killed. Now there’s a scary thought.

It’s difficult to imagine that darker, grittier Spitalfields today. The area has been transformed into a lively mix of old-world character and modern creative energy, where historic buildings sit alongside independent shops, galleries, cafés, bars and restaurants. The market itself has evolved, too, and is today a destination for fashion, food, design and independent businesses.

Our destination lies just beyond the market: the newly opened Tigermilk Spitalfields.

From the moment we step inside, it makes an impression. The restaurant is a strikingly large, light-filled space with a dramatic, colour-coordinated bar taking centre stage. Rows of brightly illuminated liquor bottles – more than 2,000 of them – glow from the shelves, creating an almost theatrical backdrop. It’s bold and glamorous; this is undoubtedly a restaurant with real wow factor.

The menu is a celebration of Latin America-inspired cuisine, with bold flavours to match the décor. There’s guacamole, mole, nachos, quesadillas, tacos, asados and ceviches – all designed with sharing in mind, which is perfect.

Sharing plates are, in my opinion, one of the greatest pleasures of dining out. Rather than the stress of committing to one dish, you can dip in and out of the menu. A much more efficient way of tasting your way around the restaurant.

There’s a comprehensive selection of meat, fish and vegetarian offerings, as well as an exciting cocktail list and a good range of reasonably priced wines from Spain and South America.

Service is welcoming and efficient. We ask for our dishes one at a time so we can savour the experience, and they are more than happy to oblige.

The slow-cooked pulled pork is spiced to perfection and served on soft corn tortillas topped with salsa verde and tangy red onion pickles. The combination is delightfully spicy and satisfying.

The salmon tiradito is beautifully fresh, with delicate slices of salmon bathed in a creamy, spicy leche de tigre that brings both richness and a lively citrusy kick.

From the asados section, we enjoy a perfectly grilled beef flank steak, marinated in the restaurant’s secret blend of spices.

But the dish that steals the show is undoubtedly the Tuna Turner. It’s simply the best.

Tender, marinated tuna sits atop a crispy corn tostada layered with creamy guacamole, punchy ají verde sauce, pickled red onions and fresh coriander. It’s a joyful mix of flavours and textures.

The food is quite simply wonderful and the presentation is beautiful, too.

As we step back out onto the streets of Spitalfields, it’s hard not to reflect on just how dramatically this corner of London has changed. The same streets that once echoed with the bustle of Victorian market traders and, more darkly, became part of the grim story of Jack the Ripper are now filled with the clink of cocktail glasses, the chatter of diners and the tempting aromas drifting from restaurants.

That’s London for you.

Words by Sandy Cadiz-Smith

Tigermilk Spitalfields is at Unit 2, The Fruit & Wool Exchange, 56 Brushfield Street, London E1. Liverpool Street is the nearest station.

Find out more: Tigermilk Spitalfields.