Al Fresco Elegance: Summer Garden Lunching at Home House

As summer officially arrives, it’s time to enjoy as much al fresco dining as possible. Unfortunately, as often happens, the day for our lunch in the garden at Home House dawns with leaden skies and the threat of wind and rain.

But we do not need to worry as the large terrace is mainly covered with a majestic heated Raj Tent. And there are soft blankets just in case we start to feel the chill. Home House sits on the corner of Portman Square overlooking the leafy square of the same name. It’s a private member’s club and hotel, and a super-convenient place to stay just five five-minute walk from Oxford Street yet in its own little bubble of serenity.

We walk through the rather grand entrance hall and head straight for the garden. The restaurant is set in a beautiful courtyard framed by stately trees with tables arranged beneath its canopy. The ideal setting for outdoor dining, regardless of the weather.

The menu is packed with dishes that sing summer flavours, and the cocktails sound irresistible. So we don’t resist and order a couple to sip on while we make our choices. They both get a thumbs up – the Sirocco is based on Glenmorangie with turmeric, ginger, and citrus notes, while the Aqua-Meloo is a refreshing mix of vodka, orange, watermelon, and lemon.

It’s so relaxing sitting in Home House’s garden, and easy to forget the bustle of Central London is all around us. And we also soon discover that the food is unexpectedly good. We start with Wye Valley asparagus served with gribiche – it is asparagus season after all. It’s served cold and crisp (lightly steamed and then cooled), and the gribiche is something of a revelation. It’s a classic French cold sauce made with hard-boiled eggs, typically chopped or sieved, emulsified with mustard and oil, and flavoured with ingredients like capers, cornichons and herbs (usually tarragon or parsley). The result is a tangy, slightly creamy condiment that goes perfectly with asparagus. It’s so delicious, I’m practising making it myself.

We also enjoy aged beef carpaccio with wild rocket and truffle pecorino. The beef is perfectly thin, and there’s a thick carpet of truffley cheese on top. Another light, summery starter that’s packed with mouthwatering flavours.

For mains, we tuck into garlic and chilli tiger prawns and a Tamworth pork chop grilled with nectarines. We add a heritage tomato salad with shallots and basil, and sautéed spinach on the side to complete our feast. The prawns are juicy and garlicky with a good chilli kick, and the pork is tender and flavourful. And those tomatoes – the tomatoes of dreams.

It’s summer and we don’t want to leave our tented haven, so we order dessert. Ice cream, naturally. A taste of the peach melba ice cream sundae makes me feel about 10 again, and the Amalfi lemon scoop is so fresh and zesty, we could almost be in Italy. Though, as it happens, we are perfectly happy enough to have discovered this secret city sanctuary.

Only hotel guests and members can book the garden for lunch. Rooms start from £420 a night. Full individual membership is £2,250 per year with a joining fee of £499.

Words by Sandy Cadiz-Smith

Home House, 20 Portman Square, London, W1H 6LW

Tel: 020 7670 2000