Riviera London Review: Elegant French Riviera Dining in the Heart of St James
A Taste of the South of France at Riviera in London’s St James
Today we’re visiting one of London’s most distinguished neighbourhoods, St James. Tucked between Mayfair, Westminster and Green Park, it takes its name from St James Palace, built for Henry VIII in the 1530s. While it sits just moments from the energy of the West End, the atmosphere is different. The pace slows and the city seems to settle into a quiet elegance and sophistication.
As we wander the streets we’re reminded of how centuries of history sit alongside fine hotels, restaurants, galleries and independent shops. St James is home to some of the city’s oldest retailers, including Berry Bros & Rudd, London’s oldest spirit and wine merchant; Lock & Co Hatters, said to be the world’s oldest hat shop and Paxton & Whitfield, London’s oldest cheesemonger, established in 1797. It gives St James a rare sense of continuity and historic relevance that seems to be disappearing.
And there’s a bit of intrigue, too. The area has long been associated with spies and politics, with government departments, exclusive clubs and discreet private offices making it a favourite meeting place for diplomats, politicians and anyone working in intelligence.
But we’re not here for shopping or spying (maybe another day). We’re here to have lunch at Riviera. From St James to the South of France is simpler than you think. The restaurant, in the heart of St James embodies the elegance of this famous region with inspiration taken from the iconic towns of St Tropez, Antibes, Cannes and Nice.
We know it’s going to be something special as soon as we walk in the door. There’s a small entrance area and in front of us we see a narrow escalator. This original 1960s escalator, said to be one of the oldest in London – makes for an unexpected and somewhat magical entrance as we glide upstairs for lunch.
The restaurant is housed in a Grade II Listed building and is suitably grand. The huge windows run the whole of one side with great views out onto this stylish of streets, making for a beautifully light-filled space. We’re loving it before the food even arrives.
But when it does…Today we’re going big with a four-course feast, because this seems the sort of space where we should linger longer. We share the first two courses.
For starters, the Riviera Josper Caeser salad takes the humble Caesar salad into a different dimension with its crunchy lettuce, super-tender chicken and ample parmesan – topped with a rich, garlicky dressing. I’m coming back here to have a whole bowl of this exceptional salad all to myself.
We also love the sea bass carpaccio with truffle ponzu. The freshest of tender fish slices sit in a beautifully citrus dressing topped with tiny specks of pureed sweet potato. It’s a real masterpiece. These are accompanied by an ample bread basket and homemade whipped butter.
Next up it’s pasta. Trofie pesto arrives, green and steaming. This traditional hand-rolled pasta from the Liguria region of Italy is short, thin and tapered into an irregular spiral with tapered ends. It’s designed to trap the sauce in and it does that beautifully with the pesto – perfect with its flavours of fresh basil and garlic.
The Parmesan bucatini is prepared table side with the hot cooked pasta mixed with parmesan slivers inside the huge parmesan wheel. It’s as cheesy and satisfying as pasta can get.
And now for the ideal main course to complete the meal. Grilled beef fillet with Cafe de Paris butter melts in our mouth and the flavours of that butter take this simple dish up a notch. Served with the prettiest of baby gem salad and the obligatory French fries.
To say that we are replete is an understatement, but who can resist a creme brûlée, in this case served with lavender shortbread. The best (and most French) way to finish off what is an incredibly impressive meal.
Riviera reflects the stylish area it sits in. Elegant and quietly beautiful with superb food to match. And it brings together the best of the South of France in the best of London settings What a combination.
Words by Sandy Cadiz-Smith
Address: 23 St James St, London SW1A 1HA
Call: 020 8050 6932