Cruising the Mediterranean: An Expedition Through Greece, Albania and Croatia

My love of cruising grows each time I board a ship. Every experience is different and the excitement of stepping onboard is hard to beat. And this voyage is going to be unforgettable on many levels, I can just feel it.

We board National Geographic Orion for our National Geographic Linblad Expeditions cruise at the little port of Lavrio just outside Athens. We’re going to cruise through Greece, Albania and Croatia and a true expedition experience awaits us. I have a long-standing love affair with Greece, while similar feelings for Croatia are more recent and Albania will be entirely new to me. I’m excited and ready for adventure.

I love the spirit of an expedition cruise. It’s slightly unpredictable, full of excitement and excursions are always a fun and lively experience. All of which is proved on our first evening when we cruise towards the Temple of Poseidon to watch the sun set in spectacular hues of red and orange. And there’s more excitement to come, as revealed at the first of the nightly briefings.

Transiting the Corinth Canal Aboard National Geographic Orion

Originally we were due to transit the Corinth Canal on our first morning but we’d received the disappointing news that it had been closed for repairs. So when Cruise Director Shawn announced that he’d just been told the canal reopened the previous day – and we would, after all, be making the transit – there was an immediate buzz of excitement around the ship.

The following morning, everyone was up bright and early, gathering on the top deck to watch this extraordinary spectacle unfold. It’s a remarkable feat of 19th-century engineering first conceived in antiquity by Periander the tyrant of Corinth that finally became a reality more than 2,000 years later.

View from the ship as it transits the narrow Corinth Canal between steep limestone cliffs in Greece.

As we approach it looks impossibly narrow. The towering limestone cliffs on either side are almost in touching distance. We’re guided through slowly, taking time to absorb the scenery and history around us. The perfect way to spend the first morning onboard before heading downstairs for lunch.

Life Aboard National Geographic Orion

This is served on the ship most days with stops and excursions thoughtfully planned around it. It’s a wonderfully relaxing al fresco interlude, a chance to enjoy the ship’s delicious food while taking in the sunshine and mingling with fellow guests. Dinner is just as convivial, and with a maximum of 104 passengers, the cruise quickly develops a warm, wonderfully social atmosphere.

Sesame-crusted seared tuna served with vegetables and sauce aboard National Geographic Orion.

Mediterranean lunch buffet aboard National Geographic Orion with cheeses, olives, cured meats, fruit and local specialities.

On our first evening, we take two places at the first table we spot with room for us. As it turns out, fortune is smiling on us. We soon strike up a friendship with the other four guests, and what began as a chance seating arrangement becomes one of the highlights of our voyage. We go on to share every dinner, and most lunches, together, growing closer as we share this adventure.

Exploring Greece: Delphi, Kefalonia and Corfu

And what an adventure it was. From the ancient ruins of Delphi, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, once regarded as the centre of the ancient Greek world, to the astonishing blues of Melissa Lake, and the labyrinthine Venetian alleyways in Corfu Old Town, our Greek discoveries delight as ever. Every stop offering something different, from ancient history and natural wonders to the charm of island life.

Sandy Cadiz-Smith and her travelling companion beside the waterfront with National Geographic Orion anchored offshore.

Discovering Albania for the First Time

And then we cross the shimmering Ionian Sea on a short cruise to Sarande in Albania. A new country and absolutely no idea what to expect.

Traditional red-roofed buildings beneath dramatic mountains during an excursion in Albania

The country emerged from one of Europe’s most isolated and repressive communist regimes in 1991 – all relatively recently. Since then it’s embarked on a challenging transition to democracy and a market economy and has started welcoming travellers. And it’s the warmest of welcomes, too. Albania is a fascinating place with lots of development underway and a complex history to absorb.

We begin our adventure at ISAK organic farm for a wine tasting, before exploring the picturesque coastal town of Sarande, on the Albanian Riviera. With its lively beaches, bustling promenade and relaxed cafe culture, it’s a great introduction to the country’s laid-back Mediterranean charm.

The following day we dock in Durres and head inland, winding our way into the mountains to the ancient hilltop city of Kruje. The town is dominated by its imposing castle, home to the Skanderbeg Museum, which tells the story of national hero, Gjergj Kastriot Skanderbeg and his 15th-century rebellion against the Ottoman Empire. There’s a lot to take in, from the rich tapestry of Albania’s past to the spectacular sweeping views across the countryside.

Kruje Castle in Albania with the Albanian flag flying against a mountainous backdrop and blue sky.

Beyond the castle, we wander through Kruje’s lively medieval bazaar, where traditional wooden shops are packed with local crafts and souvenirs. A memorable introduction to Albania, that leaves us wanting to discover so much more. A fascinating and memorable introduction to a country that leaves us wanting to discover so much more. Albania is definitely going on the list for a return visit.

Cruising Croatia: Dubrovnik and the Dalmatian Coast

But now it’s time to head for Croatia. First stop, the Pearl of the Adriatic, Dubrovnik. Today we whiz ashore in Zodiacs – one of my absolute favourite ways to arrive, gliding across the sparkling waters before stepping into the magnificent walled Old Town with its ancient stone streets and historic buildings.

Dubrovnik harbour framed by palm trees, with boats on the water and the historic city walls beyond.

Plates of freshly opened oysters served with lemon and bread during the Mediterranean expedition cruise.

From there we follow the Dalmatian coast, travelling north to the charming village of Orasac where we indulge in a tasting of locally produced olive oil and other delicious regional specialities Our journey continues to Ston, famous for its medieval walls and flourishing oyster farms.

Of course, no visit to Ston is complete without sampling some of those oysters. We jump aboard a local boat to a farm for a wonderfully relaxed lunch onboard, feasting on the freshest oysters and mussels, harvested straight from the sea. It’s one of those unforgettable moments in time, and made all the more special being shared with our new friends.

Our final port of call is Komiza, where we anchor just offshore from the gorgeous little town of Vis. Narrow streets are lined with tempting shops and pretty stone houses, and cafes overflow with the buzz of happy voices. Vis has a history stretching back to ancient times, shaped by centuries of cultural influences, including Venetian rule. But for many visitors today, the island is perhaps best known as one of the filming locations for Mama Mia! Here We Go Again! .

Colourful waterfront houses and small boats in the clear blue harbour at Komiža on the Croatian island of Vis.

For a life-long, somewhat obsessed ABBA fan like me this really is the perfect final stop. I can’t help but see the film in my mind as I wander around, imagining the scenes filmed here, hearing the music playing in my head and, inevitably, singing quietly under my breath. Well, how could I possibly resist? A little bit of magic, a lot of fun and the most fitting way to finish an unforgettable journey.

What Is a Mediterranean Expedition Cruise Really Like?

Our cruise with National Geographic Linblad Expeditions aboard National Geographic Orion has been everything a great expedition cruise should be – and then some. From the wonderfully warm, personal service, where everyone seems to know your name, to the excellent food and wine, informative onboard presentations and a brilliant programme of excursions, every day has brought something new. And then of course, there are the people, the new friends we made along the way.

Disembarking any cruise is always a sad affair. Today it was worse as we said goodbye to them (there were tears). Perhaps that’s the real measure of a journey well travelled – it’s not just the places you’ve been, but also the people you are genuinely sorry to leave behind.

All the details

Ancient Mediterranean: Exploring Greece, Albania and Croatia onboard National Geographic Orion is from £7,176 for May and August 2027 departures. The seven-night cruise departs from Lavrio cruise port in Athens and finishes in Zadar, Croatia. Highlights include the Corinth Canal, Itea (for Delphi), Kefalonia and Corfu (Greece), Sarande and Durres (Albania) and Dubrovnik and Komiza, Vis (Croatia).

Find out more at www.expeditions.co.uk

Words by Sandy Cadiz-Smith

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