How to Make the Perfect Savoury Soufflé + 5 Delicious Recipes

One of the nicest breakfasts I’ve ever eaten was a cloud-like cheese soufflé served at a rather fancy hotel – the name of which, annoyingly, I can no longer remember. The hotel may have disappeared from my memory, but that soufflé certainly hasn’t.

It was impossibly light, beautifully risen and intensely cheesy, and ever since, I’ve been mentally challenging myself to recreate it at home.

There was just one small problem: soufflé is notoriously difficult to make.

But I’m never one to let a dish defeat me. Having already tackled some of the dishes considered the most difficult to master – including Beef Wellington – this week I decided it was finally time to turn my hand to the perfect savoury soufflé.

And, as it turns out, soufflé doesn’t deserve quite as much fear as we give it.

There are rules. There are definitely a few places where things can go spectacularly wrong. And yes, you need to resist the almost overwhelming temptation to open the oven door and have a look. But understand what makes a soufflé rise, master a few basic techniques and that gloriously puffed, cloud-like dish is entirely achievable at home.

So, if you’ve always filed soufflé under ‘things best left to restaurant chefs’, I’m hoping to change your mind. Here’s everything I learned about making the perfect savoury soufflé – followed by five recipes worth putting your newfound skills to the test with.

Why Is Soufflé So Difficult to Make?

Soufflé has earned a reputation as one of the great tests of a cook’s ability. In fact, I included it in my guide to the 10 most difficult dishes to make, alongside other intimidating classics such as Beef Wellington.

The difficulty isn’t really about complicated ingredients or endless preparation. A basic soufflé contains remarkably little. The challenge is that several small techniques have to come together at precisely the right time.

The egg whites need to contain enough air. The base needs the right consistency. The two need to be combined without knocking all that precious air back out, and then the soufflé needs sufficient heat to expand and set before it collapses.

Get those things right and most of the hard work is done.

And one important point before we begin: all soufflés fall eventually.

A soufflé emerging magnificently from the oven before gradually sinking isn’t a failed soufflé. That’s simply what soufflés do. The aim is to get it beautifully risen, cooked through but still light inside, and onto the table while it is at its best.

What Makes a Soufflé Rise?

There is no yeast, baking powder or other raising agent involved. The magic comes primarily from whipped egg whites and steam.

Whisking egg whites traps thousands of tiny pockets of air inside a network of egg proteins. Once the soufflé goes into a hot oven, that trapped air expands and moisture in the mixture turns to steam.

The mixture pushes upwards.

Meanwhile, the proteins in the eggs begin to set, giving the soufflé enough structure to hold its new shape.

That’s why seemingly fussy instructions about whisking, folding and oven temperature actually matter. You’re essentially building a very delicate structure and then asking hot air and steam to inflate it.

The Equipment You’ll Need

You don’t need specialist kitchen equipment beyond a few basics:

A soufflé dish or individual ramekins
A medium saucepan
A large, spotlessly clean mixing bowl
A balloon whisk or electric hand whisk
A flexible spatula or large metal spoon
A pastry brush
A fine grater

Individual ramekins are particularly good if you’re making soufflé for the first time. They cook relatively quickly, look lovely on the table and remove the slightly nerve-racking business of portioning a large soufflé without completely destroying it.

How to Prepare a Soufflé Dish

This is one of those small steps that makes a surprisingly big difference.

Generously butter the inside of your ramekins using upward strokes from the base towards the rim. The idea is to encourage the soufflé mixture to travel upwards rather than cling to the sides.

For savoury soufflés, coat the buttered interior with finely grated Parmesan or fine breadcrumbs, tipping out the excess.

Once filled, run the tip of your thumb around the inside edge of each ramekin to create a small channel between the mixture and the rim. This helps the soufflé rise neatly and gives you that lovely restaurant-style top.

The Basic Savoury Soufflé Method

Most cheese-based savoury soufflés follow the same basic formula.

You begin by making a thick béchamel-style base from butter, flour and milk. Egg yolks, cheese and flavourings are incorporated into this mixture before separately whisked egg whites are folded through.

The technique is more important than the individual flavour you choose.

1. Make a Thick Base

Melt butter in a saucepan, stir in flour and cook it briefly before gradually whisking in milk.

Unlike a pouring béchamel, a soufflé base should be very thick. If it’s too wet and heavy, those delicate egg whites have an awful lot of work to do.

Let the base cool slightly before adding the egg yolks so they don’t scramble.

2. Whisk the Egg Whites

Your bowl and whisk must be completely clean and free from grease.

Even a little fat or egg yolk can interfere with the whites’ ability to whip properly.

Whisk until you have firm, glossy peaks. You want enough structure to hold plenty of air, but don’t keep going until the whites become dry, grainy and difficult to incorporate.

3. Sacrifice the First Spoonful

This sounds rather dramatic, but it’s useful.

Take roughly a quarter of the whipped whites and stir them fairly briskly into your soufflé base.

Yes, you’ll knock some air out.

That’s fine.

This first addition loosens the heavier base, making it much easier to incorporate the remaining whites gently.

4. Fold, Don’t Beat

Add the remaining whites in two additions.

Use a spatula or large metal spoon to cut down through the middle of the mixture, sweep along the bottom and fold it back over itself.

Turn the bowl as you work.

Stop as soon as there are no obvious streaks of egg white remaining. Overworking the mixture is one of the easiest ways to lose the air you’ve spent all that time creating.

5. Get It Straight Into the Oven

This is not a mixture to leave sitting on the worktop while you pour yourself a glass of wine.

Have the oven hot, dishes prepared and everything else ready before you start folding.

Fill the dishes and bake immediately.

The 10 Rules of a Perfect Soufflé

If there’s anything I’ve learned from tackling supposedly difficult dishes, it’s that success usually comes down to respecting the technique.

For soufflé, these are the rules I’d stick to:

Preheat the oven properly. A soufflé needs immediate heat.
Prepare the dishes before making the mixture.
Use room-temperature eggs where possible.
Don’t allow any yolk into your egg whites.
Make sure your whisking bowl is completely clean and grease-free.
Don’t over-whisk the whites. Firm and glossy is what you’re looking for.
Loosen the base with some egg white before gently folding in the rest.
Fold only until combined.
Run your thumb around the rim before baking.
Do not open that oven door.

Seriously. Don’t.

Why Did My Soufflé Collapse?

First, establish whether you actually have a problem.

If your beautifully risen soufflé begins sinking once it leaves the oven, congratulations: you’ve made a soufflé.

The dramatic height comes from hot expanding air and steam. As the dish cools, that air contracts and the soufflé naturally loses some volume.

A soufflé that fails to rise properly in the first place is another matter.

Possible causes include egg whites that weren’t whisked sufficiently, over-folding the mixture, a base that was too wet, leaving the finished mixture standing before baking or putting it into an oven that wasn’t properly preheated.

Opening the oven door too early can also cause a sudden drop in temperature before the soufflé has developed enough structure to support itself.

Can You Make Soufflé in Advance?

Not really – at least, not if you want the classic towering soufflé experience.

You can prepare the flavoured base ahead of time and refrigerate it, then bring it towards room temperature before folding through freshly whisked egg whites and baking.

But once those whites are incorporated, you’re on the clock.

There is another option, however: the twice-baked soufflé. These are deliberately baked, cooled, turned out and baked again, making them much more forgiving for entertaining.

But for the classic version? Make everybody come to the soufflé. Don’t make the soufflé wait for everybody.

5 Savoury Soufflé Recipes to Master

Once you’ve understood the basic technique, the fun part is changing the flavours.

These recipes make four individual soufflés using approximately 200ml ramekins. Exact cooking times can vary slightly depending on the dimensions of your dishes and your oven, so look for soufflés that are dramatically risen, golden on top and set around the edges while retaining a lovely light centre.

1. Classic Gruyère & Parmesan Cheese Soufflé

This is where I wanted to start: the classic cloud-like cheese soufflé that had been living rent-free in my head since that long-forgotten hotel breakfast.

Gruyère brings nuttiness, Parmesan gives it a salty savoury hit and Dijon and nutmeg stop all that dairy richness becoming one-dimensional.

Ingredients

30g unsalted butter, plus extra for the ramekins
20g finely grated Parmesan, plus extra for coating
30g plain flour
250ml whole milk
½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
A small pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
4 large eggs, separated
100g Gruyère, finely grated
25g Parmesan, finely grated
Fine salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/Gas 6 and place a baking tray inside to heat.

Butter four ramekins generously using upward strokes. Add a little finely grated Parmesan, rotate each dish until the interior is coated and tip out any excess.

Melt the 30g butter in a saucepan over a medium-low heat. Add the flour and stir continuously for around one minute.

Gradually add the milk, whisking constantly. Cook until you have a smooth, very thick sauce that pulls slightly away from the sides of the pan.

Remove from the heat. Stir in the Dijon, nutmeg and a good grinding of black pepper. Allow to cool for a few minutes.

Beat in the egg yolks one at a time, followed by the Gruyère and Parmesan. Taste before adding salt because the cheeses already bring plenty.

Whisk the egg whites in a completely clean bowl until they form firm, glossy peaks.

Stir roughly one quarter of the whites into the cheese base to loosen it. Gently fold in the remainder in two additions.

Divide between the prepared ramekins, filling them almost to the top. Level gently and run your thumb around the inside edge.

Place on the hot baking tray and bake for 14–17 minutes without opening the oven.

Serve immediately.

2. Smoked Haddock & Mature Cheddar Soufflé

Smoked haddock and cheese is one of those combinations that just makes sense. This is richer and more substantial than the classic version and would make a gorgeous weekend breakfast or light supper.

Ingredients

120g undyed smoked haddock fillet
250ml whole milk
30g unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing
Fine breadcrumbs for coating
30g plain flour
4 large eggs, separated
90g mature Cheddar, finely grated
1 tablespoon finely chopped chives
½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
Freshly ground black pepper

Method

Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/Gas 6. Butter four ramekins with upward strokes and coat lightly with breadcrumbs.

Put the haddock into a small pan with the milk. Bring just to a gentle simmer, then remove from the heat, cover and leave for around five minutes until the fish flakes easily.

Lift out the haddock and reserve the milk. Remove any skin and check carefully for bones before flaking the fish into small pieces.

Melt the butter in a clean saucepan. Stir in the flour and cook for one minute.

Gradually whisk in 250ml of the reserved poaching milk – topping it up with fresh milk if necessary – and cook until extremely thick.

Remove from the heat and leave to cool slightly before beating in the egg yolks, Cheddar, Dijon and black pepper.

Gently fold through the smoked haddock and chives.

Whisk the whites to firm glossy peaks. Stir a quarter into the haddock mixture, then gently fold in the remainder.

Divide between the ramekins, clean around the rims and bake for 15–18 minutes.

Serve immediately, perhaps with a simply dressed handful of rocket alongside.

3. Spinach, Feta & Dill Soufflé

This one is lighter and fresher, with salty feta, plenty of herbs and a little lemon zest to lift everything.

The important thing with spinach is getting rid of as much water as possible. Excess moisture is exactly what we don’t want weighing down a soufflé.

Ingredients

150g baby spinach
30g unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing
Fine breadcrumbs for coating
30g plain flour
250ml whole milk
4 large eggs, separated
100g feta, finely crumbled
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh dill
½ teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
Freshly ground black pepper
Small pinch of nutmeg

Method

Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/Gas 6. Prepare four ramekins with butter and breadcrumbs.

Wilt the spinach in a dry pan, then transfer it to a sieve. Once cool enough to handle, squeeze it very thoroughly to remove as much liquid as possible. Finely chop.

Melt the butter, add the flour and cook for one minute. Gradually whisk in the milk and continue cooking until very thick.

Remove from the heat and cool slightly.

Beat in the egg yolks followed by the feta, dill, lemon zest, nutmeg, black pepper and chopped spinach.

Whisk the egg whites to firm glossy peaks.

Use a quarter to loosen the spinach mixture, then carefully fold through the remaining whites.

Spoon into the ramekins, run a thumb around each rim and bake for 14–17 minutes until beautifully risen.

4. Wild Mushroom & Thyme Soufflé

This is the one for a chilly autumn evening.

The secret is cooking the mushrooms until their moisture has completely evaporated. You want concentrated, almost nutty mushroom flavour rather than a watery mixture threatening your carefully whipped egg whites.

Ingredients

150g mixed mushrooms, very finely chopped
1 teaspoon olive oil
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
30g unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing
Finely grated Parmesan for coating
30g plain flour
250ml whole milk
4 large eggs, separated
75g Gruyère, finely grated
25g Parmesan, finely grated
½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
Fine salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/Gas 6 and prepare four ramekins with butter and Parmesan.

Heat the olive oil in a frying pan over a medium-high heat.

Add the mushrooms and thyme and cook until the mushrooms have released their liquid and that liquid has completely evaporated. Continue cooking until they begin to take on some colour.

Season lightly and set aside.

Make the soufflé base by melting the butter, stirring in the flour and cooking for one minute. Gradually whisk in the milk and cook until very thick.

Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly.

Beat in the yolks, Gruyère, Parmesan and Dijon before stirring through the cooled mushroom mixture.

Whisk the whites to firm glossy peaks. Stir one quarter into the mushroom base before carefully folding through the remainder.

Divide between the ramekins, run your thumb around the rims and bake for 14–17 minutes.

Serve while dramatically puffed and golden.

5. Truffle & Parmesan Soufflé

If we’re going to master soufflé, we may as well have one that feels properly luxurious.

Truffle and Parmesan are both powerful flavours, so restraint is important here. The aim is an intensely savoury cheese soufflé with the unmistakable earthy aroma of truffle – not something that tastes as though somebody has emptied an entire bottle of truffle oil into it.

Ingredients

30g unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing
Finely grated Parmesan for coating
30g plain flour
250ml whole milk
4 large eggs, separated
100g finely grated Parmesan
½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
½–1 teaspoon good-quality truffle oil, to taste
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh truffle or truffle paste, optional
Freshly ground black pepper

Method

Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/Gas 6. Butter four ramekins generously and coat the interiors with Parmesan.

Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour and cook for one minute.

Gradually whisk in the milk and cook until you have a very thick, smooth base.

Remove from the heat and allow it to cool slightly.

Beat in the egg yolks, Parmesan and Dijon.

Now add the truffle oil sparingly, tasting as you go. If you’re using fresh truffle or a good truffle paste, fold that through too.

Season generously with black pepper.

Whisk the egg whites to firm glossy peaks. Stir a quarter into the Parmesan mixture to loosen it before gently folding through the remainder.

Divide between the prepared ramekins and run your thumb around each rim.

Bake for 14–17 minutes without opening the oven.

If you’re feeling particularly extravagant, finish the baked soufflés with a few very fine shavings of fresh truffle just before serving.

What to Serve With a Savoury Soufflé

A soufflé really doesn’t need much.

For lunch or a light supper, I’d serve one with a sharply dressed green salad – rocket, watercress or bitter leaves work particularly well because they cut through all that cheese and richness.

For breakfast or brunch, the classic cheese version needs even less. Good coffee, perhaps some properly crisp bacon on the side and you’ve got the sort of breakfast that might stay in somebody’s memory long after they’ve forgotten the name of the hotel that served it.

Is Soufflé Really One of the Most Difficult Dishes to Make?

After finally making the dish I’d spent years telling myself I ought to attempt, I’m not entirely convinced it deserves its terrifying reputation.

Is it less forgiving than making a bowl of pasta? Obviously.

But there’s no mysterious chef’s trick involved. A good soufflé is really a collection of small techniques: make a sufficiently thick base, whip plenty of air into your egg whites, don’t knock it all back out again, and get the mixture into a properly heated oven quickly.

The biggest hurdle might actually be having the confidence to try it.

And there’s something enormously satisfying about putting a fairly unremarkable-looking ramekin into the oven and watching it emerge 15 minutes later with a magnificent golden crown towering above the rim.

Just make sure everyone is already sitting at the table.

You’ve worked far too hard for your soufflé to be waiting for them.

Crave Magazine – inspiring modern lifestyles across the UK and beyond.