The Duke of Wellington Review: More Than a Sunday Roast

When you find a local restaurant that both you, your friends and your family genuinely love, chances are you’ll keep going back time and time again.

Well… maybe not if you’re a food writer.

I eat out several times a week for work, so when I’m not reviewing restaurants, I’m usually in the gym trying to make sure I don’t have to be rolled into my next assignment. Glamorous, it isn’t. Eating for a living definitely has its drawbacks.

That said, every now and then a restaurant comes along that’s good enough to tempt me back.

The Duke of Wellington in East Keswick is one of those places.

A few weeks ago, my husband and I visited for Sunday lunch and came away seriously impressed. Since then, the pub has continued to generate plenty of local buzz, even picking up recognition from the Yorkshire Evening Post, so when the opportunity came to return with a group of friends, we didn’t need much persuading.

Rather than ordering another roast, we decided to explore the extended Sunday menu, which offers far more than the traditional Sunday lunch. From fresh seafood and beautifully cooked meats to lighter starters and comforting classics, it gave us the perfect opportunity to discover whether The Duke of Wellington could deliver the same consistently high standard across its wider menu.

After all, one great meal is easy enough to achieve. It’s the second visit that really tells you everything you need to know.

If diners return for a third visit, you’ve probably won yourself a regular customer. The challenge, of course, is keeping them. It only takes one off day, one disappointing meal or one lapse in service for people to start looking elsewhere.

Hospitality is one of the toughest and most unforgiving industries there is. Diners have more choice than ever, expectations are high, and word spreads quickly when something isn’t quite right.

Having worked in hospitality myself, from washing pots to front of house and eventually management, I’ve gained a fairly rounded understanding of what makes a successful restaurant tick. Surprisingly, I don’t think it’s the food that sits at the heart of it all.

It’s the people.

That’s where The Duke of Wellington really excels.

James heads up the kitchen, bringing years of experience and a career that’s earned him a respected reputation across Leeds and Yorkshire. Meanwhile, Nicola runs the front of house with the kind of calm confidence that makes everything appear effortless, even when the restaurant is full. Every table is acknowledged, every guest feels welcome and service flows with genuine warmth rather than rehearsed hospitality.

It’s a partnership that works, and after two visits, it’s becoming increasingly clear that the consistency we enjoyed isn’t accidental. It’s the result of two people who clearly care about every customer who walks through the door.

It’s a glorious summer’s day and the Duke’s beautiful beer garden is alive with people making the most of the sunshine. Our group of 11 are seated inside the restaurant at around 3.30pm. The lunchtime rush is beginning to wind down, but there’s still a lovely buzz about the place. It feels relaxed, welcoming and exactly the sort of village pub you could happily while away an entire afternoon in.

The menu remains refreshingly concise, but that’s no bad thing. There’s plenty of choice without trying to be all things to all people, and every dish sounds as though it’s there for a reason. Tempting as another Sunday roast was, the extended Sunday menu offered too many appealing alternatives to ignore. In fact, I don’t think a single person around our table opted for the traditional roast.

Every one of us decided to start with an appetiser, giving us the perfect opportunity to sample a good cross-section of the menu.

For me, it was the chilled tomato gazpacho. On a warm summer’s afternoon, I honestly couldn’t have chosen better. Silky smooth, beautifully seasoned and topped with slow-roasted cherry tomatoes, vibrant basil pesto and a drizzle of balsamic glaze, it was fresh, vibrant and incredibly moreish. Simple dishes often leave nowhere to hide, but this was executed beautifully.

My husband chose the salmon gravlax with fennel, orange salad and dill crème fraîche, a dish that looked every bit as elegant as it tasted, while several others around the table opted for the classic prawn cocktail, generously filled and exactly the sort of timeless starter that never goes out of fashion. The seared tuna Niçoise salad also proved popular, showcasing perfectly cooked tuna alongside crisp vegetables and a well-balanced dressing.

What struck me most wasn’t just the presentation, although every plate looked immaculate, but the quality of the ingredients. Fresh, seasonal produce was allowed to shine, with thoughtful combinations and restrained cooking that let each component speak for itself.

Choosing a main course proved to be the hardest part of the afternoon. The menu may not be extensive, but every dish sounded genuinely tempting, with the kind of confidence that suggests the kitchen would rather do a handful of things exceptionally well than stretch itself too thin.

Alongside the ever-popular Sunday roast, there was succulent roast chicken with Mediterranean vegetables, slow-cooked vine tomatoes and a lemon and oregano dressing; grilled sea bass served with new potatoes, tenderstem broccoli and roasted almond butter; loin of cod with butterbeans, pancetta and a roasted chicken skin sauce; and, for those looking to indulge, a half grilled lobster with garlic butter, crisp salad and golden fries. There was also a pappardelle pasta with roasted peppers, sun-blushed tomatoes and Parmesan for anyone preferring a vegetarian option.

Between us, we managed to sample the roast chicken, grilled sea bass and the lobster, as well as the loin of cod – giving us a great opportunity to see how the kitchen handled very different styles of cooking.

The half lobster proved to be one of the stars of the afternoon, and it wasn’t difficult to see why. Arriving glistening with garlic butter, accompanied by crisp salad, roasted tomatoes and a generous portion of golden fries, it certainly turned heads around the table. Judging by the speed with which it disappeared, it tasted every bit as good as it looked. Sadly, being allergic to shellfish, it wasn’t an option for me, but if the glowing comments from around the table were anything to go by, it’s a dish well worth ordering.

The summery take on roast chicken was another resounding success. Served with Mediterranean vegetables, slow-roasted vine tomatoes and a light lemon and oregano dressing, it felt fresh, vibrant and perfectly suited to a warm Sunday afternoon. The bright citrus notes lifted the dish beautifully and it was enthusiastically received by those who ordered it.

For my main course, I opted for the grilled sea bass, and I couldn’t have been happier with my decision. The fish was cooked perfectly, with crisp golden skin giving way to moist, flaky flesh beneath. Served alongside buttery new potatoes, tenderstem broccoli and a roasted almond butter sauce, every element was thoughtfully balanced. The flavours were delicate enough to complement the fish rather than overpower it, allowing the quality of the ingredients to shine. It was elegant, satisfying and one of those dishes that reminds you just how good simple cooking can be when it’s executed well.

By the time we’d finished our main courses, nobody could quite face dessert. Instead, we did what any sensible group would do on a glorious summer’s afternoon and headed back out into the beer garden for another glass of wine and plenty more conversation.

It rounded off what had been a cracking afternoon.

Between the 11 of us, the food worked out at around £46 per person. Naturally, some dishes cost more than others, but thankfully we’re not the sort of group who reaches for a calculator at the end of a meal. It all evens itself out over time and, frankly, life’s too short.

We’d sensibly kept separate drinks tabs throughout the afternoon, which avoided any awkward maths, but when it came to the food, I thought the overall value was exceptional. Considering the quality of the ingredients, the standard of cooking and the consistently attentive service, it felt like money very well spent.

Returning to a restaurant is probably the greatest compliment you can pay it. Returning twice is a sign you genuinely enjoyed it. After our second visit to The Duke of Wellington, I’m already wondering what excuse I can come up with for a third.

Because that’s the real test of any great restaurant. It doesn’t simply impress you once; it leaves you wanting to come back.

For me, that’s exactly what The Duke of Wellington has achieved.

In fact, I’m already planning my next visit. The girls from the gym have been talking about getting together for lunch, and The Duke of Wellington is right at the top of my list.

It’s important to support great local restaurants throughout the week, not just at weekends. Midweek tables are often the hardest to fill, and if we want independent pubs like this to continue thriving, they deserve our support all year round.

So, if you’ve been thinking about booking a table at The Duke of Wellington, consider this your sign to do it.

After two visits, I can wholeheartedly recommend it, and the fact that I’m already planning a third is probably the biggest compliment I can give. In my line of work, where I’m constantly trying new places, returning to the same restaurant isn’t something I do often.

The Duke of Wellington has earned that return visit.

And when you book your table, tell them I sent you.

Joanne Brook-Smith is a lifestyle writer with a passion for food, travel and hospitality. She spends much of her time exploring restaurants across Yorkshire and beyond, sharing honest reviews and celebrating the people who make dining out such a memorable experience.

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