Edging closer towards its milestone 21st birthday, Chaophraya is something of an institution in my home town of Leeds, with a stellar reputation for serving up fancy cocktails and top-shelf Thai cuisine. I only found out about its Glaswegian sister venue last year (despite it being open for 16 years) and was keen to try out its much-celebrated tapas menu on my recent visit. Let’s dive into Chaophraya Glasgow.
Much like Leeds, the Nelson Mandela Place venue is both impressive and unique. A huge four-floor townhouse, once home to the Royal Scottish Academy of Music, the space blends old-school British glamour with opulent Thai touches seamlessly.
Heading up to the high-vaulted first-floor dining room with our host Aomje, we’re given a brief history of the building before being seated for lunch in a plush booth. Some crisp Thai crackers are served as we peruse our options.
The 12 dishes featured on the tapas menu cover all bases, which could make choosing difficult for some. Accompanied by a plus one who won’t touch seafood, it wasn’t quite so tough for us. The Panang Sous Vide Beef Bao Buns are a highlight, with the succulent beef strips generously smothered in a rich Panang sauce and finished with lime leaves and red chilli.
Predictably, the Salt and Pepper Crispy Chicken sauteed with garlic, peppers, chillies and crispy onions went down a storm. Tender and juicy on the inside, crisp on the outside – delicious. Next, we tried the Pad Thai, which was the only major letdown having perhaps spent too much time under a heat lamp (having had this dish in Leeds several times, I know they usually knock this out of the park).
This was rectified with the arrival of the Southern Thailand-inspired Crisp Belly Pork (or Moo Grob), which was doused in sweet soy sauce and worth every calorie. Another dish worth seeking out is the signature Chicken Tacos, which are cooked in a fragrant red curry sauce and garnished with crispy shallots.
Our final dish was by far my personal favourite and the one I had been looking forward to the most – the Basil Spiced Chicken Karaage. Call me out for being something of a Southern-fried simpleton, but there’s something about this Thai twist on my go-to dirty food that takes it to another level.
The Thai basil spice mix is perfect, adding flavour to the tender chicken and extra crispy coating. This dish also pairs perfectly with a chilled glass of the Cloudy Bay Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc or an ice-cold Singha.
Having consumed one dish too many, we avoided dessert in favour of a round of cocktails. The impeccably mixed Chiang Mai Old Fashioned is a real treat, blending premium Johnnie Walker Blue Label Whisky with coffee liqueur, orange bitters and vanilla syrup.
Final verdict
With just one dud dish out of six, the tapas menu is an excellent way to sample one of the UK’s best restaurant brands at a reasonable price (£25 for five dishes or £6 per individual dish). The venue is stunning, service is slick and the cocktails alone are worth a visit to the Palm Sugar Lounge Bar.
Chaophraya, Nelson Mandela Place, The Townhouse, Glasgow, G1 2LL. Tel 0141 320 0241
Review and photography by Fletch.