Bluebird Chelsea Review: A Summer Lunch at One of London’s Most Iconic Restaurants
Iconic has become one of the most overused words in the modern lexicon, so I usally avoid using it. But on this occasion there is simply no more fitting description, because we’re dining at a London restaurant that has earned its place as a genuine Chelsea icon.
Located at the bottom of the King’s Road, the building was not designed as a restaurant. It opened in 1923 as the Bluebird Motor company’s showroom and garage – one of the largest garages in Europe at the time. It was closely associated with Sir Malcolm Campbell whose famous Blue Bird vehicles set multiple land ans water speed records.
The Art Deco landmark became a dining icon in the 1990s when Sir Terence Conran transformed it into a huge restaurant and lifestyle destination that was nicknamed a gastrodome. Bluebird Chelsea quickly became one of Chelsea’s most fashionable places to eat and a celebrity hotspot. I vividly remember the sense of anticipation I felt one my first vist, and, remarkably, I still feel that same subtle frisson of excitement every time I return.
And now I have an excuse to visit again. The restaurant has launched a newly imagined menu celebrating Britian’s rich food heritage. This produce-led approach champions fresh ingredients from across the British isles, through a selection of contemprary dishes.
New signature dishes include British classics like steak tartare, marmite tart, railway mutton curry, Brixham seabass and Essex lamb chops. What a mouthwatering selection. And the cocktail list is just as enticing, so I can’t resist sampling one. Which I’m thrilled about, as the Spicy Ciao with its mix of Havana spiced rum, passion fruit juice puree, lime juice, Giffard agave and fresh chilli is summer in a glass has a fabulous kick and is the best start to any meal.
Which we kick off with a pair of tartares. The steak comes with the most delectable spicy bloody mary dressing and bone marrow on the side – an incredibly tasty and indulgent treat. And the tuna is bursting with freshness with its mix of Isle of Wight tomatoes, green chilly and peppery olive oil. Anyone who denegrates British tomatoes has clearly never tried the Isle of Wight version – so juicy and flavourful.
The rope-grown Scottish mussels are nothing short of extraordinary in a vividly green sauce of English sparkling wine, wild garlic and parsley, accompanied by the delicious saltiness that is anchovy flatbread. To make it all the more delightful, the mussels have all been picked from their shells so there’s none of the usual (slightly messy) performance that comes with eating these molluscs. I am very happy.
The game ragu is everything a classic meat sauce should be, rich, deeply savoury and luxuriously luscious with layers of slow-cooked flavour that speak to time and tradition. It clings beautifully to the ribbons of fresh egg pasta and a scattering of 36-month aged parmesan adds the final flourish. Honest, comforting and perfectly balanced, this is pasta and meat sauce exctly as it should taste.
When it’s time for dessert, all we can manage is a refreshing selection of sorbets – fortunately two of my favourite flavours are on offer – mango and raspberry. They provide the perfect dinale to a leisurely summer lunch on yet another hot and sun-drenched London day.
As the meal draws to a close, the conclusion feels inescapable. Bluebird is far more than a well-known restaurant or fashionable destination, it is one of London’s landmark institutions. A place that has evolved with the city while remaining timeless, continuing to define the very best of London’s dining and social scene.
Bluebird is at 350 King’s Road, London SW3
Find out more at www.bluebird-restaurant.co.uk
Don’t miss the summer set menu. It’s remarkable value at two courses for £20 and three for £25.
Words by Sandy Cadiz-Smith
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