In a city brimming with Indian restaurants, Colonel Saab stands out. Not just for its stylish decor but for its ever-evolving menu that keeps regulars like me coming back. There’s always something new to try, and today I’m looking forward to sampling their latest chapter of flavours.
The restaurant has quickly become a favourite. The service is warm, the interior is elegant, and I feel instantly at home the moment I step inside. Settle into a cosy corner, menu in hand, and the outside world slips away. It’s just you, the tempting aromas from the kitchen, and the delicious decisions ahead.
As ever, we begin with poppadoms because at Colonel Saab they’re a must. There are several varieties, each with its own distinct flavour and crunch, served with punchy sambals. Light, crisp, and addictive, they’re the perfect prelude to our feast.
First up from the new menu – the Banarasi Amrood Ki Chaat. A chaat is a wonderful thing – a tangy-sweet-spicy Indian street food dish that bursts with flavour in every bite. Today’s version is a crispy guava cone filled with spiced cream, layered with tangy tamarind and raspberry sauces, and topped with crispy noodles. It’s crunchy, fresh, sweet, and sour and eaten with your fingers. Joyful.
Next, the Batti Ka Murgh. Our waiter warns us it’s generously portioned for a starter, but that only adds to the appeal. It’s half a chicken, slow-cooked in a black spice crust and served with a tangy kasundi sauce. The meat falls off the bone, juicy and perfectly spiced. Some of the best chicken I’ve ever eaten.
The newest main on the menu is the Old Delhi Lamb Curry, and as a lamb curry fan, I can’t resist. It doesn’t disappoint. The lamb is meltingly tender and the sauce is deep, rich and just spicy enough to warm without overwhelming. It’s served with the fuffiest rice and the best paratha I’ve had outside of Kerala.
There are a couple of new sweet treats to finish with – an almond-rice pudding and a crisp jackfruit tart. Seems there’s no end to the imaginative dishes on offer.
Colonel Saab is a firm favourite with many celebrities including Jonathan Ross, Jennifer Coolidge, David Baddiel, John Lithgow and even the cast of Ted Lasso. But just as importantly, it is firmly my favourite, always with something new to discover – and that’s what keeps it truly special.
Colonel Saab is in William IV Street, just off The Strand and close to Trafalgar Square.
www.colonelsaab.co.uk
Words by Sandy Cadiz-Smith
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