Do you NEED Moisturiser this winter?

This expert says you probably don’t need a moisturiser this winter – here’s why

As the weather cools and the heating is switched on, the skin becomes more susceptible to dehydration – for many of us it feels natural to reach for richer formulations.

But according to skin expert and clinical facialist Kate Kerr, this can result in skin that becomes imbalanced, irritated, and more dehydrated.  What’s more, it may even exacerbate acne. 

“Whether it’s winter or summer, our skin doesn’t need an entirely different regime,” shares Kate. “A common misconception is that thicker formulations help to support skin through the colder months, but this isn’t necessarily the case. In fact, moisturisers can be detrimental to our skin.”

Moisturisers inhibit the skin’s natural ability to hydrate and impair the skin’s natural renewal and shedding cycle – leading to an impaired barrier. 

“By using a moisturiser, our skin’s surface sends a signal down to its water reservoirs telling it that there is plenty of moisture and to halt production.  This makes the skin sluggish and lacking in moisture, so we reach for more moisturiser, thus exacerbating the problem and reaching for a richer moisturiser. 

Moisturisers also glue down the skin’s dead skin cells, as the skin tries to maintain balance, it halts the production of fresh cells and stops shedding of old ones to prevent the skin’s surface becoming too thick – thus upsetting barrier function. This exposes the skin to toxins and the environment and enhances what is known as trans epidermal water loss – the evaporation of water out of the skin. Causing more sensitivity and dehydration.”

Instead, Kate says that we should look at small tweaks to help our skin better cope with the change in environmental factors.

1.       Your acne and rosacea flare up may be due to central heating

In winter the constant change of environment, from a hot, centrally heated room to the fresh cold outside air can play havoc with the skin.  The dehumidified air of a heated room strips the moisture from the skin leaving it feeling tight, dry, and dull and can even exacerbate sensitivity and rosacea.   The skin will often try and counteract this by over producing sebum to prevent moisture evaporation.  Add this to the mix of a build-up of dead skin cells and you have an increased risk of acne.  

To help counteract the dryness, turn the temperature down a few notches and put on a jumper instead.  Cleanse the skin with a gentle exfoliating cleanser to prevent build-up of dead skin cells to strengthen the barrier and enhance product penetration and help the skin to maintain its hydration.  Apply a serum containing hyaluronic acid as this holds 1000 times its own weight in water and will help counteract this water loss, without upsetting your skin’s natural moisturising factors.  Drink plenty of water to keep the body and cells hydrated. 

2.       Pollution is more damaging to skin in winter

In the winter, skin’s subjection to pollution can be higher. This isn’t just due to added pollutants from fires and wood stoves, but also is the result of something called temperature inversions. In other seasons, warm air sits near the ground and as it rises, carries pollutants away. In the winter, cold air is trapped near the ground underneath a layer of warm air, which means smoke and carbon monoxide from pollution can’t rise and can reach unhealthy levels. Pollution particles stick to our make-up, which is why cleansing when you’re in for the evening is so important. If left on the skin, pollution can result in free radical damage, leading to breakdown of healthy collagen and premature ageing.  It is also extremely irritating and sensitising to the skin. 

3.       Darker days may be damaging your skin

The extended darker hours of winter can mean a reduction in vitamin D, as the sunlight stimulates our skin cells to produce it. Vitamin D contributes to skin cell growth, repair, and metabolism. It optimises our skin’s immune system, which in turn helps destroy the free radicals that cause our skin to age prematurely. 

Taking a vitamin D supplement is a must, but make sure you add in retinol serum as it helps to stimulate these skin processes to work efficiently. A Vitamin A derivative, retinol helps to stimulate a large percentage of the different cells within the skin to behave as fresher, healthier, and younger versions of themselves.  This not only improves collagen and elastin production but also speeds up cell turnover, improves function, increases hydration, and stabilises the melanocyte to not only smooth and brighten, but to prevent breakout – therefore maintaining skin clarity.