A Relaxing Girls’ Spa Break at Headlam Hall, County Durham
There’s something wonderfully restorative about escaping everyday life with a good friend.
It was a sunny Thursday in July when my best friend and I rolled our weekend cases into the car and set off for County Durham, looking forward to 24 hours of spa treatments, good food and, perhaps most importantly, uninterrupted conversation.
I can’t tell you how much time with friends matters.
Most weeks, I work from the office in my garden, spending my days writing, editing and talking almost exclusively to my laptop. Don’t get me wrong – I absolutely love what I do – but when you work for yourself it can be surprisingly easy for the days to blur together. A catch-up over coffee becomes a rarity, and before you know it you’ve gone a week speaking more to Google than actual people.
So every now and then, pressing pause and escaping with someone who has known you for years feels less like a luxury and more like a reset.
There’s something about getting out of your usual surroundings that encourages conversations you simply don’t have at home. The drive there is filled with laughter before you’ve even arrived, the phones stay in handbags a little longer than usual, and somehow you end up solving all of life’s problems over a pot of tea or a glass of wine.
That was exactly the plan as we pointed the car towards Headlam Hall.
Nestled in the rolling countryside of County Durham, this elegant country house hotel promised everything we were craving: beautiful gardens, a luxurious spa, excellent food and a chance to slow the pace for just a little while. And after a busy few months, it couldn’t have come at a better time.
A Country House Steeped in History
Headlam Hall itself has a story stretching back centuries. Tucked away in the quiet village of Headlam, the Grade II* listed country house has evolved over more than 400 years, with parts of the building dating back to the 17th century. Once a private family home, it has been carefully transformed into one of County Durham’s most established luxury country house hotels, while retaining the character and charm that make historic properties so special.
Rather than feeling like a grand hotel that happens to occupy an old building, Headlam Hall still feels like a country home. Original stonework, oak beams, open fires and elegant drawing rooms sit comfortably alongside modern touches, while the surrounding estate of gardens, woodland and rolling countryside creates an immediate sense of calm from the moment you arrive.
Over the years, the estate has expanded to include an award-winning spa, a golf course and beautifully landscaped gardens, making it a destination in its own right rather than simply a place to spend the night. Yet despite its impressive facilities, there’s an understated warmth about Headlam Hall. It doesn’t shout about luxury; instead, it quietly delivers it through thoughtful service, timeless surroundings and an atmosphere that encourages you to slow down.
As we turned into the long, tree-lined drive, the stresses of everyday life began to melt away almost instantly. This was exactly the countryside escape we’d been hoping for.
Our Beautiful Suite
We really lucked out with our room on this trip.
Opening the door to our suite, we were greeted by an elegant space dressed in calming neutral tones that immediately invited us to slow down. The room felt wonderfully spacious, with a huge bed taking centre stage, dressed in crisp, luxurious linens that practically begged you to dive straight in for an afternoon nap.
The bathroom was every bit as impressive. A beautiful freestanding bath sat proudly in the centre, while the walk-in shower was so enormous it could probably accommodate an entire rugby team… or at least half of one! A separate WC is always a thoughtful addition, particularly when you’re sharing a room with a friend, and there was also a dedicated dressing area, a comfortable sofa and more than enough wardrobe space for my admittedly excessive collection of outfits for a one-night stay.
Headlam Hall has clearly paid attention to the little details that elevate a stay. Thick, fluffy robes were waiting for us, alongside immaculately white towels that were actually big enough to wrap around yourself properly – a surprisingly simple luxury that many hotels still seem to overlook. The Molton Brown toiletries added another indulgent touch, making the thought of a long soak in the bath even more tempting.
It’s a genuinely beautiful suite, and one I could happily have spent far longer enjoying.
If I were being particularly picky, there are only two things I’d change. For a room of this calibre, I would have expected a mini fridge, and as someone who is admittedly rather fussy about tea, I always appreciate fresh milk over the little UHT cartons. It’s a very minor point and one that’s entirely personal.
Beyond that, the suite has everything you’d hope for from a luxury country house hotel. Stylish, comfortable, beautifully maintained and wonderfully relaxing, it made an excellent first impression.
Relaxing at the Spa
After freshening up and changing into what we like to refer to as our “resort wear” (it’s amazing what a linen co-ord and a pair of oversized sunglasses can do for the holiday mindset), we made our way over to the spa.
With my facial booked for 4pm, there was just enough time to settle in first. We ordered a chilled glass of fizz from the charming Spa Lounge Bar before finding a sunny spot on the terrace. It was one of those glorious July afternoons where there really is nowhere else you’d rather be – blue skies overhead, birdsong in the background and not a single email demanding your attention.
The spa at Headlam Hall is elegant rather than over-the-top, creating a calm, welcoming space where it’s easy to lose track of time. At its heart is a beautiful heated swimming pool, its shimmering blue water almost jewel-like beneath the natural light that floods the space. Comfortable loungers line the poolside, offering the perfect spot to unwind between a swim and your next treatment.
Step outside and you’ll find a separate outdoor vitality pool, where bubbling hydrotherapy jets soothe tired muscles while you soak up the fresh County Durham air. During the warmer months, the adjoining terrace is a lovely place to relax with a drink or simply enjoy the sunshine, making the most of the peaceful surroundings.
The spa also features both a sauna and a steam room, ideal for easing away any remaining tension, while the changing facilities deserve a mention too. They’re spotlessly clean, well maintained and thoughtfully equipped with everything you might need, making it easy to arrive, settle in and simply enjoy the experience without having to think about the practicalities.
It isn’t the largest spa I’ve visited, but that’s part of its charm. It feels intimate, peaceful and unhurried—a place designed for genuine relaxation rather than making a statement.
My Anti-Ageing Collagen Facial
Before long, it was time for my treatment.
I slipped into one of the softly lit treatment rooms, shed the fluffy robe and settled onto the heated treatment bed, cocooned beneath crisp towels as calming music drifted gently through the room. If there was ever a place designed to make your shoulders drop within seconds, this was it.
I had booked the 60-minute Anti-Ageing Collagen Facial (£85), a treatment designed to target fine lines and loss of firmness using marine collagen and three different forms of hyaluronic acid to deeply hydrate and plump the skin. The promise? A fresher, more youthful complexion with visible results after just one treatment.
Now, I’m always a little sceptical when beauty treatments promise to turn back the clock. Looking ten years younger after an hour in a treatment room sounds like a tall order. But what I can say is that for sixty blissful minutes, I completely switched off.
My therapist talked me through each stage of the treatment with just the right balance of professionalism and warmth before allowing the soothing massage techniques, luxurious products and gentle rhythm of the facial to do their work. It wasn’t one of those treatments where someone simply applies products and disappears; it felt considered, unhurried and wonderfully indulgent from beginning to end.
By the time it was over, my skin felt intensely hydrated, looked noticeably brighter and had that healthy, well-rested glow that no amount of expensive foundation can recreate. Whether I’d lost a decade is perhaps open to debate, but I certainly looked fresher, my skin felt beautifully soft and, more importantly, I walked out feeling completely relaxed.
For me, that’s worth every penny.
Sunshine, Cocktails and Friendship
After my treatment, I emerged feeling wonderfully relaxed to find my friend exactly where I’d left her—comfortably settled with her book and clearly having enjoyed an equally peaceful afternoon while I was being thoroughly pampered.
There was only one thing left to do.
We wandered back out onto the terrace, ordered another round of drinks and settled into the late afternoon sunshine. Time seemed to slow right down as we chatted, laughed and watched the world go by. Sometimes the simplest moments are the ones you remember most.
This trip carried a little extra significance too. It happened to fall on what would have been my friend’s late father’s birthday. While those anniversaries are always bittersweet, it somehow felt like the perfect place to honour him. We raised a glass, shared a few stories, smiled at the memories and quietly celebrated a life that had meant so much.
It’s funny how places become woven into our memories. Headlam Hall will always remind us of that afternoon—not just because of the beautiful surroundings or the excellent spa, but because it gave us the time and space to pause, reflect and simply enjoy being together.
And somehow, that made the drinks taste even better.
Dinner at Headlam Hall
Back in our beautiful suite, it was time for the best part of any girls’ getaway.
The playlist went on, the hair straighteners came out and, after a leisurely hour spent chatting while getting ready, we donned our glad rags and made our way down for dinner.
The restaurant at Headlam Hall is a beautiful light-filled conservatory overlooking the estate’s immaculate grounds. Floor-to-ceiling glass floods the dining room with natural light during the day, while in the evening it creates a wonderfully elegant setting as the gardens fade into dusk. It’s sophisticated without feeling stuffy – exactly the sort of place where you can linger over dinner for a couple of hours without feeling rushed.
Naturally, we kicked things off with a cocktail each before settling down to study the menu.
Headlam Hall’s dinner menu changes with the seasons, celebrating the fantastic produce available across County Durham, Yorkshire and Northumberland. Many of the herbs, fruits and vegetables are picked from the hotel’s own kitchen garden when in season, giving the kitchen an enviable selection of fresh ingredients to work with. The result is a menu that blends classic British cooking with more contemporary influences, allowing the quality of the produce to take centre stage rather than overcomplicating the dishes.
It’s exactly the sort of menu I enjoy reading. Not overwhelmingly long, but carefully curated, with enough choice to make the decision deliciously difficult.
Thankfully, after much deliberation (and perhaps another sip of cocktail), we finally made our choices.
Our Starters
For starters, we both opted for dishes that felt perfectly suited to a warm summer’s evening.
My friend chose the warm chargrilled peach salad, where sweet, caramelised peaches were paired with grilled asparagus, nuggets of creamy blue cheese, pomegranate seeds, a drizzle of vanilla syrup and rich balsamic glaze. It was a beautifully balanced dish that celebrated summer produce, with the sweetness of the fruit offset perfectly by the salty richness of the cheese. Light, colourful and beautifully presented, it looked every bit as good as it tasted.
I couldn’t resist the goat’s cheese and potato pressé, served with hot honey, delicate slices of pear, pickled mushrooms, fresh herbs and an impossibly crisp filo shard. Visually, it was a work of art, each component carefully arranged across the plate rather than simply placed there.
The goat’s cheese itself was wonderfully creamy, while the sweetness of the pear and hot honey played beautifully against the gentle acidity of the pickled mushrooms. Every mouthful seemed to offer something slightly different, and although it was undoubtedly refined dining, there was nothing pretentious about it. It was simply thoughtful cooking that allowed excellent ingredients to shine.
As we swapped forks across the table (as all good friends do), we both agreed we’d happily have ordered either dish. That’s always a good sign.
The Main Event
The main courses continued the evening on exactly the right note.
My friend opted for the poached lemon sole, served with herb-crushed potatoes, wilted spinach, asparagus, king prawns and a rich lobster bisque. It was an elegant plate that let the fish do the talking. The lemon sole flaked effortlessly under the fork, beautifully moist and delicately sweet, while the luxurious bisque brought the whole dish together with its deep shellfish flavour. The king prawns added another layer of indulgence without overwhelming the star of the show, creating a dish that felt refined yet wonderfully comforting.
Meanwhile, I had absolutely no regrets about ordering the herb-roasted rack of lamb.
Presented with perfectly pink cutlets, a generous piece of slow-braised lamb belly, baby carrots, charred bok choy, cabbage, silky sweet potato purée and a vibrant mint, basil and anchovy salsa, it was one of those dishes that makes you pause for a moment before diving in.
The rack was cooked exactly as it should be – beautifully blushing in the centre with a delicious herb crust that added just the right amount of texture. But if I had to choose a standout element, it would be the braised lamb belly. Rich, meltingly tender and packed with flavour, it was everything slow-cooked lamb should be.
The sweet potato purée brought a gentle sweetness that balanced the richness of the meat, while the salsa added a fresh, punchy lift that stopped the dish from ever feeling too heavy. Every component had earned its place on the plate.
Once again, we found ourselves swapping forks across the table. My friend’s sole was wonderfully delicate, while she declared my lamb “dangerously good” after pinching a bite of the braised belly.
By this point, it was clear the kitchen wasn’t simply producing attractive plates for Instagram. This was confident cooking that respected great ingredients and delivered on flavour just as much as presentation.
Cheese, Conversation and a Perfect End to the Day
By this point, we really should have admitted defeat.
But when there’s a well-curated British cheese board on the dessert menu, walking away simply isn’t an option.
So, in the interests of thorough journalism, we shared a selection of British cheeses accompanied by crackers, chutney and all the usual accompaniments. It was the perfect way to round off an excellent meal, giving us just enough time to reflect on our favourite dishes from the evening (and, naturally, start planning where we’d eat breakfast).
With the last of our wine finished and the restaurant beginning to quieten, we wandered back through the hotel and returned to our suite.
The music stayed off this time.
After an afternoon in the spa, a superb dinner and a couple of celebratory cocktails that had somehow turned into rather more than a couple, it didn’t take long before we were tucked beneath those wonderfully comfortable sheets, ready for one of the best night’s sleep either of us had enjoyed in quite some time.
Sometimes, that’s exactly what a girls’ getaway is all about.
Breakfast and Farewell
One of the joys of staying at a hotel with a spa is making the most of it before everyone else is awake. While my friend enjoyed a well-earned lie-in, I couldn’t resist one final early morning swim. Slipping into the heated pool while the spa was still wonderfully peaceful felt like the perfect way to begin our last day, and I spent a few quiet moments soaking up the tranquillity before it was time to pack.
Afterwards, we returned to the restaurant for a hearty Full English breakfast, served in the same beautiful conservatory overlooking the gardens. Freshly brewed coffee, perfectly cooked bacon and sausages, eggs, mushrooms, tomatoes and all the traditional favourites set us up nicely for the drive home. It was a fitting finale to what had been a thoroughly relaxing stay.
As we loaded our bags back into the car, there was that familiar feeling that always comes at the end of a wonderful break – a touch of melancholy that it was over so quickly.
The good news is that Headlam Hall is only around an hour from home, making it wonderfully accessible for a spontaneous overnight escape or even a spa day.
As we pulled away down the tree-lined drive, I realised this probably wouldn’t be the last time I’d visit. In fact, I’d already quietly resolved that I’d be back – it is only an hour from home!
Some places simply have that effect on you. Headlam Hall is undoubtedly one of them.
I think you would enjoy all that is on offer here, so book your stay – and tell them I sent you….
Address: Hall Country Hotel & Spa, Headlam, Darlington DL2 3HA
Tel: 01325 730238
Joanne Brook-Smith is a lifestyle writer with a passion for food, travel and hospitality. She spends much of her time exploring restaurants across Yorkshire and beyond, sharing honest reviews and celebrating the people who make dining out such a memorable experience.
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