Review: A Taste of Venice at TOZI Battersea Power Station
London is a city that never stands still, constantly reinventing itself while preserving echoes of its past. Few places illustrate this more strikingly than Battersea Power Station. Today it is one of the capital’s most vibrant destinations, but its origins were decidedly industrial. As its name suggests, the vast Art Deco landmark was originally built as a power station, generating electricity for London from 1933. Construction was completed in 1935, and for decades its four iconic chimneys dominated the skyline, serving as a powerful symbol of the city’s industrial might.
At its peak, it supplied 20% of London’s electricity and consumed more than a million tonnes of coal per year – all delivered by specially designed boats that could fit under London’s bridges. During World War II RAF pilots used the station’s huge plumes of smoke and steam to navigate back to London through fog and poor visibility.
Of course, times change, and the future of Battersea Power Station was far from assured. Following its closure in 1983, a succession of ambitious redevelopment schemes came and went, leaving the building standing empty for decades. Living in southwest London, I became accustomed to seeing its elegant chimneys rising above the skyline whenever I passed. To me they were both a monument to London’s industrial ingenuity and ambition and a poignant reminder that even the most remarkable successes can prove fleeting.
For years, the vast structure stood suspended between past glory and an uncertain future – but transformation wasn’t far away. The current redevelopment (highly successful in my opinion) began after a Malaysian consortium bought the site in 2012. Construction of the first phase (Circus West Village) started in 2013, nearly 40 years after the power station had closed. Everyone waited with anticipation (including me).
The public reopening of Battersea Power Station happened on the 14 October 2022 marked the culmination of one of London’s most ambitious regeneration projects, although the wider riverside neighbourhood had been gradually taking shape for several years beforehand.
I have visited numerous time since, I’m fortunate to live only a short bus ride away, and each visit reveals something new. The development seems to grow ever more dynamic, with an expanding array of restaurants, cafes, bars, shops and leisure attractions.
Today we’re heading for TOZI Pizzeria and Cicchetti Bar on Electric Boulevard, only a short walk from the station (another shiny and relatively new addition to southwest London). On the corner of the boulevard is TOZI Counter, overlooking the majestic power station and serving a mouthwatering array of freshly made pastries and sandwiches.
And right next door, adjacent to the art’otel is TOZI Pizzeria and Chicchetti Bar, a restaurant inspired by the convivial dining culture of Venice. Its name derives from the Venetian word tozi, meaning a close-knit group of friends or companions gathered together. The concept reflects the long-standing Venetian tradition of sharing chicchetti – small plates designed for communal dining and conversation, much like Spain’s tapas culture.
We begin with a selection from the chicchetti menu; a generous serving of crisp Zucchini fritti delicately dusted with a 24-month-aged parmesan, alongside luscious grilled king prawns bathed in rich Nduja butter. Both dishes perfectly executed and a satisfying start to a main that is one of our favourites.
As devoted consumers of a well-executedVeal Milanese, we simply could not resist ordering it here – especially as it isn’t to be seen on that many menus these days. We like to enjoy it as it is often served across Europe, accompanied by a portion of pasta dressed in a fresh tomato sauce and, happily, the kitchen was more than happy to accommodate our request. It really is the best combination.
The menu also offers an enticing array of pasta dishes and pizzas with rather extravagant toppings like black truffle, lobster and fennel sausage. The sort of selection that leaves you planning a return visit before the meal is over. For pudding (I’m desserting again) we opted for two enduring Italian favourites: a beautifully layered tiramisu and silky creme brulee with a perfectly caramelised crust. A fitting conclusion to a thoroughly enjoyable Italian feast.
TOZI combines contemporary Italian dining with stylish interiors designed by acclaimed Spanish artist Jaime Hayon. It’s situated within the art’otel hotel Battersea Power Station complex.
There are sister venues in Victoria and Amsterdam if you happen to be heading that way. But you should be exploring Battersea Power Station as soon as you have the chance. It really is something of a marvel.
Words by Sandy Cadiz-Smith