Fresh Pasta and Big Flavours at Tortello in Paddington
Today we’re heading west to one of London’s oldest stations. Paddington, a grand 1854 creation of engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel which has operated from the same site since its beginnings. The area around the station is a comfortable mix of Victorian history and modern London energy. Once a gritty, canal-side district shaped by industry and railways, Paddington has transformed into a lively hub of offices, waterside developments, bars and restaurants. And that’s why we’re here, to try out the Italian offering at Tortello.
The stylish restaurant sits within the plush surroundings of the Royal Lancaster Hotel overlooking Hyde Park. I don’t automatically equate Paddington with Hyde Park, which I need to correct, as this beautiful green space is only a 10-15 minute walk from the bustle of the station. Another hugely positive aspect of the area.
The restaurant’s name is fittingly inspired by pasta – a tortello is the singular form of tortelloni. Under chef Guiseppe, fresh pasta is made daily and the menu is created using the best, speciality ingredients from artisan farmers. You can taste the pride that the dishes are made with in every mouthful.
We start with tortelli – naturally – two options that celebrate spring vegetables at their finest. The asparagus tortellini is served with a lemon butter emulsion, asparagus coulis, shaved asparagus and hazel nuts. The fresh, pillowy pasta is bursting with asparagus flavours, complemented by the richness of the lemon butter and the hazel nuts are a lovely crunchy addition. Pea and shallot tortellini comes with mint butter emulsion, guanciale and pecorino. The sweetness of peas is offset with luxurious minty butter and the meaty salty guanciale, which is like a more intense version of pancetta.
For mains, Tortello serves a selection of interesting-sounding (and new to me) pasta. shapes. Our charming waiter brings over a plate to show us this selection so we can visualise our dishes when selecting which one to try. We go for radiatori served with a beef shin ragu and ricotta – hard to describe the pasta shape in words – you’ll see what I mean from the picture. A rich and clearly long-cooked ragu, totally satisfying.
In the interest of a thorough review, we ventured beyond the pasta and ordered the chicken cotoletta Milanese, served with lemon, creamy spinach and fries. I love a schnitzel-style dish and have sampled a few in my time – this Italian version is a great example on how to do it right. Piping hot, tender chicken encased in a delicate, golden crust that delivered just the right crunch. And genius to serve it with spinach and chips, a heavenly pairing.
To round off a highly delicious and enjoyable Italian lunch, we had to test the tiramisu, and it did not disappoint. Beautifully balanced, it combined rich coffee notes with a light, luscious creaminess. The perfect finale to a meal celebrating the pleasures of traditional Italian cooking, all clearly prepared with love and attention.
Tortello is alongside the Lancaster Hotel, Lancaster Terrace, London W2 2TY
Find out more at www.tortello.com
Words by Sandy Cadiz-Smith
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