Six by Nico has hit a sweet spot since launching in Leeds back in summer. In fact, it’s hard to believe nobody else landed a similar concept sooner. Could the timing have been any better for a more affordable, accessible fine-dining restaurant?
We enjoyed their Chippie menu back in July, but we loved their latest even more. Street Food is nothing new these days and has been so watered down it could mean anything- you could be eating the world’s best Thai noodles in central Bangkok or a half-arsed burger at a Bognor Regis music festival.
Thankfully, Six by Nico has injected some much-needed energy and inspiration into the concept with an enticing selection of globe-spanning dishes. Just like last time, you have the option to enjoy some pre-dinner snacks, which are subject to an additional fee.
The Los Angeles Mac & Cheese, presented in a croquette with pickled gherkin relish and chorizo emulsion sounded very tempting, but we skipped this and went straight to the main event. Course one kicked it off strong with the delicious Gochujang Pork Steamed Bun.
Inspired by the street food scene in Seoul, South Korea, this delicate bun of goodness with its fall-apart tender pork centre is elevated with chilli oil, ginger and pickled mushroom. The next stop is Goa, India, with a lightly spiced Samosa with onions and pickle.
Once again demonstrating an excellent balance of flavours, this course is accompanied by the first of five paired wines (matching wines are an extra £30pp) – an easy-drinking extra dry Prosecco from Cavalieri Reali.
Course three moves to Istanbul with an interesting take on the Kebab. Comprising of melt-in-the-mouth lamb belly, roasted cabbage, pickled golden raisins, salsa verde and roasted garlic foam, it’s without doubt the poshest kebab I’ve tried and unsurprisingly the most complex in terms of flavour. It’s a delight and goes nicely with the excellent Cuvée Beaugaran, Côtes de Thau, Saint-Jean des Sources.
Mexico City is the next source of inspiration with a symphony of flavours hitting all the right notes with the Fish Taco. Here, the smoked jalapeno and tomatillo salsa work well to complement the coal fish and barbecue corn. We enjoy yet another solid white wine with the light and minerally Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC.
For the last savoury dish, it’s time to hit up Jakarta for one of the best dishes on the menu – Satay Chicken. Consisting of leg roulade, shallot jam, satay sauce, peanut crumble, and pak choi salad, this crowd-pleasing plate takes a classic dish up a level.
This dish comes with an optional add-on, which comes recommended. The Hot & Sour Indonesian King Prawns with papaya, peanut and sesame has a burst of complex heat and marries nicely with the exceptional Malbec Bin, No.9, Don Feli – my personal favourite of all the wines.
Dessert comes from Hanoi, Vietnam, with a surprising dish simply named Coffee. It’s a rich and indulgent recipe of cocoa mousseline, coffee, leche and buttermilk and we could have quite easily devoured three. Paired perfectly with the Grains de Plaisir, Cotes de Gascogne IGP, Cave de Marmandais dessert wine, it makes for an excellent end to Six By Nico’s best menu to date.
If we were impressed upon our first visit, this new menu really takes things up a notch. They didn’t put a foot wrong and managed to add some much-needed oomph to the art of street food. Add to this an even slicker service than last time, and you have one of the city’s best dining experiences right here.
Street Food is available until the 17th of November and it’s one you don’t want to sleep on.
Six by Nico, 9 East Parade, Leeds, LS1 2AJ