As Holy Cow, a new French film about Comté cheese makers, quietly steals hearts and whets appetites across the UK, cheese expert Patrick McGuigan shares everything you need to know about this iconic cheese and highlights other lesser-known cheeses to seek out from the Jura region.
“Few cheeses capture the soul of French cheese-making quite like Comté. Produced using centuries-old techniques, strict production methods and locally sourced ingredients that tie it explicitly to the Jura Massif in Eastern France, it is fantastic to see this pride, precision and tradition light up the big screen.”
Comté has been growing in popularity in the UK (according to a leading supermarket, in 2024 sales were up 40% in 12 months), however the film will hopefully open up the cheese to new audiences and foster a greater appreciation of cheeses from the Jura region.
What is Comté?
A hard-cooked mountain cheese with a nutty, buttery, and slightly sweet flavour. Comté is as popular in France as Cheddar is in the UK. It’s a versatile raw milk cheese, typically aged for a minimum of four months, though many wheels are matured for 12, 18, or even up to 36 months. “The result is a cheese that evolves beautifully over time, developing complexity and depth,” says McGuigan.
What Does Comté Taste Like?
“Comté has a varied and complex flavour profile, thanks to the diversity of its terroir and the way it is made and matured. Younger wheels tend to be milky, and slightly sweet, with a supple texture. As it matures, it becomes firmer, more crystalline, and develops richer, hazelnutty notes reminiscent of brown butter, roasted hazelnuts, and even savoury umami,” says McGuigan.
“No two wheels taste exactly the same. Each reflects the milk from a particular season, pasture, and herd of Montbéliarde or French Simmental cows.”
How is it made?
Comté production is rooted in time-honoured methods and seasonal rhythms. It is covered by a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), which means it must be made to strict production practices in the Jura Massif region. Only milk from designated breeds of cows, fed on grass and hay, can be used. The milk is collected twice daily and must be used within 24 hours. The cheese is made in small village dairies called fruitières, where local farmers bring their milk to be transformed by skilled cheesemakers. The milk is gently warmed and curdled, then cut, stirred, and pressed into wheels (weighing up to 40kg). After being salted and air-dried, the cheese is aged in cool, humid caves where it is regularly turned, brushed, and monitored for months — or even years.
How to Eat Comté?
“It is delicious served on cheeseboard in slices with cured meats, nuts, dried and fresh fruit and chutney. However, it’s also a versatile ingredient on the kitchen. It melts beautifully in fondues, gratin or grilled sandwiches; grated into pasta or used for French classics such as quiches and omelettes. It’s also great melted on a burger.”
Other Jura cheeses not to be overlooked:
The Jura region, where Comté is made, is located in eastern France along the border with Switzerland. It is one of the country’s most storied and distinct cheese-making regions. Here are three other cheeses to look out for:
Bleu de Gex PDO
“Bleu de Gex is one of the more elusive PDO blues. Often overshadowed by the likes of Roquefort or Stilton, it is well worth seeking out. Mild and creamy with delicate blue veining, it offers a subtle tang rather than a spicy punch.
“It’s a good blue for beginners, or for those who like their cheeses on the gentler side — and it works well with sweet pairings like pear, fig or even a drizzle of honey.”
Cancoillotte PGI
“This runny, pourable cheese could be described as a fondue’s laid-back cousin. It is made by melting a base curd (called metton) with milk, butter, and often garlic or wine. You heat it gently and pour it over potatoes, sausages, or bread. The result is light, tangy, and savoury.”
Morbier PDO
“Morbier is renowned for the ash line that runs through the centre of the cheese. The cheese is supple and slightly elastic, with a washed rind that gives a meaty, savoury flavour to the cheese within. It’s a great melter.”