Sometimes I feel a void in my life that only fluffy naans, warming curries, crisp poppadoms, and all the sundries can fill. Luckily, because I live in Leeds, I’m never too far from an exceptional Indian restaurant. With that in mind, the promise of truly authentic flavours in a vibrant setting at the city’s hottest new opening sounded too good to miss.
Not to be confused with its predecessor (the poorly received India Bistro), The Crossing Indian Bistro started in Dubai before swiftly making waves in Paris and Nice. Chef and Founder Ankur Chakraborty wisely chose Chapel Allerton as the brand’s first British neighbourhood to cosy into, with a second UK venue poised to open in Ealing, London.
Inspired by his childhood spent travelling India’s railway lines as the son of a railway worker, Ankur fell in love with the country’s diverse regional flavours from a young age, and the rest is history.
Stepping into the restaurant, it’s hard not to get swept away by the rich interiors. The colours are warm and inviting, the soft lighting creates a mood, and the framed prints dotted throughout add character. It looks and feels high end, but cosy and unpretentious at the same time.
Thankfully, the menu is equally impressive. Arriving famished, we welcomed the excellent Pappad Tray with House Chutney with open arms. This posh take on the classic poppadoms and pickle tray is a must, featuring crisp poppadoms and four delicious dips.
From the starters selection, we loved the Dal Moradabadi. Made with yellow split mung lentils, pakwaan crisp, and chutneys, this velvety-smooth dish is a real flavour bomb. It’s also the kind of dish I would have passed on without the house recommendation, proving you can’t always judge a dish by its menu description.
Ever the fried chicken fiend, I couldn’t resist the Kerala Fried Chicken, which is tasty and tender, with spicy salt, curry leaf and fiery gunpowder aioli. But it was the Tandoori Achari Black Tiger Prawns that really won us over. These gargantuan shell-on prawns are plump, juicy, and chargrilled, served with a sour curd and pickle marinade.
The winning streak continued with our mains, starting with the fragrant Chicken Dum Biryani. The soft boneless chicken is buried in an irresistible mix of aromatic spices, saffron, and basmati rice, and served with a vibrant pomegranate raita.
Next up came one of The Crossing’s hero dishes, the Railway Lamb Curry. Served on a slightly corny but charming train-shaped serving dish, this beautiful dish is a must. The lamb really does fall from the bone, and the smoked rogani laal mass curry sauce balances spice with smokiness to perfection.
Cocktails here are great too. The Nawabi Old Fashioned is a brilliantly boozy take on my go-to tipple, mixed with spiced whiskey, bitters, sugar and orange zest.
Final verdict
The Crossing knows exactly how to press your buttons when it comes to serving traditional Indian cuisine. Relying solely on building flavour rather than overpowering your taste buds with spice, the food is great and surprisingly affordable (the menu’s most expensive item is the Railway Lamb at a bargain £17).
Servers are friendly and genuinely passionate about the food, and the restaurant itself is stunning. A real asset to Chapel Allerton’s ever-evolving array of fine eateries.
The Crossing, 33-39 Harrogate Road, Chapel Allerton, Leeds, LS7 3PD. Tel 0113 340 0236.
Review and photography by Fletch.