CrowdedHouse, one of Leeds’ premier rooftop dining boltholes, recently celebrated its first birthday, but shows no sign of slowing down. Head Chef Simon Jewitt just rolled out a gloriously autumnal menu, packed with dishes that take the season’s best produce and transform it into something memorable.
Embracing techniques such as smoke, char, slow cooking and pickling, the kitchen team has worked its chops off to create a mouthwatering selection that can tempt all palates without overcomplicating things. No poncey ingredients you’ll need to Google here.
But first, the cocktails. Similar to the food menu, the list is sure to hit your sweet spot without being overly long. The Chevez Kick is best described as a fancy-pants spicy marg, hitting big on the flavour front with Leeds’ very own Hacien Tequila, spicy Cointreau, mango, lime and cardamom.
Fruity and slightly creamy with a fiery kick, it’s a wonderful creation that begs a repeat order. The wine list is top-notch too, a real global affair ranging from affordable to budget-busting. Luckily for us, General Manager-slash-sommelier Antonio Perrini was on hand to recommend the perfect pairing for our meal, which turned out to be a mighty fine Tuscan Chianti.
A touch drier than your typical Chianti, with red fruits and a hint of chocolate, it marries particularly well with beef and lamb, as we soon discovered.
For appetisers, you can pick and choose from starters, snacks and an oyster selection, with each section home to some absolute bangers. Highs include the melt-in-the-mouth Guinness-braised pork cheek with pickled mushrooms and hazelnut emulsion, and the plump, crisp Tempura Prawns with smashed avocado, shrimp cracker, and smoked tomato mayo.
The Chicken Liver and Rosemary Parfait with Brown Butter Crumpets is another divine option, and just as rich and calorific as you’d expect. One of the more playful snacks, and one I’d highly recommend, is the Truffle and Black Pepper Potato Churros.
Yeah, so truffle might have been done to death and swapped out long ago in favour of a national pistachio obsession, but these golden churros and their accompanying sauce are undeniably moreish. It’s only a matter of time before M&S are selling these by the truckload surely.
If you’re going for oysters, we loved the Mignonette, Lemon and Watermelon Hot Sauce dressing, which complemented the juicy molluscs without overpowering them.
Mains are equally as impressive. The Barbecued Lamb Loin with lamb and pink peppercorn sausage, garlic puree and lemon verbena broad beans was tender and just the right shade of pink.
The Dry-Aged Fillet Steak was more traditional but well executed, served with a grilled tomato and mushroom skewer, peppercorn sauce, and house fries.
And whilst some may argue ordering a burger in such a fine establishment is sacrilegious, there are times when all you need is a couple of charred smash patties between two fluffy buns. Made with dry-aged beef from Yorkshire’s Sykes House Farm, the burger dripped beautifully with juice and came smothered in liquid cheese and tangy house pickles.
Served in a beef-fat brioche bun just to make you feel extra greedy, it was everything I wanted. If you only have one burger on your menu, make it this one.
If you have room for dessert, the Tiramichoux is worth your time. A rich chocolate-and-coffee choux bun with mascarpone and dreamy Amaretto ice cream. My personal pick, however, has to be the Compressed Strawberries, which are far more delicious than their name suggests.
Served with whipped cereal milk, strawberry sorbet and elderflower meringue, it took me back to eating endless bowls of sugary cereal drenched in milk while watching Saturday morning cartoons as a kid. Who doesn’t need a good dose of nostalgia these days?
Final verdict
With impeccable service, inventive food that doesn’t take itself too seriously and a vibey bar upstairs to let the night continue, CrowdedHouse is a bold, spirited restaurant that deserves your attention.
Taking over from the beloved Crafthouse was no mean feat, but this place has done so with aplomb, bringing a freshness to the city’s food scene. An excellent date night joint that dares to be a little different.
CrowdedHouse, 70 Boar Lane, Trinity, Leeds, LS1 6HW.
Review and photography by Fletch.
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