The bustling borough of Croydon on the outskirts of London has a long and dynamic history. As one of the areas recorded in the Domesday Book completed by order of King William the Conqueror in 1086, it started as a small village with just 48 inhabitants. The area expanded in the Middle Ages as a market town and centre for charcoal production, leather tanning and brewing.
It later became one of London’s ultimate leisure destinations in the 19th century with the design of The Royal Beulah Spa and Gardens. And during the Second World War, it was home to London’s main airport which led to it being mainly destroyed by German V-1 flying bombs and V-2 rockets. There’s no doubt that Croydon has had many faces.
These days, it’s a thriving sort of place known for its market, shopping opportunities and diversity of artisan foods. It’s also a popular area for commuters with its great transport links, including trains and trams. And now it’s home to a new, stylish neighbourhood restaurant. Fern is the latest venture of Bart & Taylor’s three venues on their mission to deliver hospitality opportunities in under-served areas around the UK.
A sister to the much-loved Mr Fox, located in the heart of the nearby Surrey Street Market, Fern opened in March 2023. It’s on the ground floor of the Ten Degrees building just steps from East Croydon train and tram stations. It’s open all day, with an interesting breakfast menu and all-day menu serving a wide range of sharing plates made using fresh, seasonal ingredients from London’s best producers.
The space is contemporary and elegant with wooden floors and finishes, green banquettes and light flooding in through the floor-to-ceiling windows. The menu is handily divided into sections called Plant, Sea and Land and our charming South African waiter recommended we order five dishes to share. My dining companion is gluten intolerant and was delighted to discover she had plenty of choices, with safe dishes marked on the menu with a gf.
We loved everything we ordered which included padron peppers with truffle honey, heritage tomatoes and herb olive oil, rock oysters, sea bream ceviche with pomegranate, grapefruit and chilli and duck breast with pak choi, pineapple and tropical jus. Those menu decisions weren’t easy with plenty of other delights on offer, including sweet potato gnocchi, chargrilled tiger prawns, baked scallops, beef tartare, rack of lamb and braised short rib. There’s something to suit every taste and it’s all beautifully presented and served with a smile.
The cocktails also sounded superb and we couldn’t resist finishing with the most delectable of chocolate martinis. Accompanied by the lightest of lemony panna cottas and some fluffy cheesecake. Fern is a great addition to Croydon’s bar and restaurant scene and its easy to get to even if you don’t live in the area. I took the opportunity to ride the tram home, something of a novelty in London and the perfect end to our enjoyable afternoon.
Words by Sandy Cadiz-Smith