Paternoster is a charming fishing village on South Africa’s west coast, less than a two-hour drive from Cape Town. It’s known for its whitewashed cottages, unspoiled beaches, and exceptional restaurants – the absolute pinnacle of seaside tranquility.
I’d heard a lot about Paternoster, and as a beach lover and foodie, I had my doubts that this little country town by the sea could live up to all the plaudits. I had to go and find out for myself.
It’s a short and easy drive from the centre of Cape Town through the region’s open spaces and farmland, passing turnings to exotic-sounding places like Grotto Bay, Atlantis, Stompneusbaai, Jakkalsfontein, and Tieties Bay.
The anticipation builds as we take a very underwhelming turn signposted Paternoster. There’s nothing in sight but those wide open spaces. Until we go over the hill and spot the jumble of whitewashed buildings tumbling down to the white sand and turquoise sea. Suddenly, it feels like we’re in some ancient town in Greece or Spain. Or possibly heaven? That first sight of something extraordinary hits you in unexpected places.
After our initial exploratory visit (or when I fell in love, as I like to call it), we’ve taken to regularly renting a house on the beach and gathering together a group of like-minded friends. There’s a wide range of accommodation of a high standard available, something to suit everyone’s needs.
After an easy check-in, we’re soon settled into our beach house with a glass of local wine in hand (of course, it’s wonderful wine), taking in the views of expansive white sands and sparkling azure seas. And planning our days.
They are laid-back, happy days of taking long beach walks, dining at surprisingly delightful (and incredibly priced) restaurants, quaffing cold beers in eclectic bars, and enjoying social times on our veranda with a view. Our favourite bar is Seekombuis (Sea Kitchen), a tumbledown structure on the
beach with seating inside colourful boats, incredible views, and a sense of that unique Paternoster peace.
It’s also something of a revelation that this quiet corner of the West Coast (Weskus) is home to exceptional restaurants. Like the one-of-a-kind Wolfgat, recipient of the Restaurant of the Year award at the inaugural World Restaurant Awards in 2019.
Chef Kobus Van der Merwe’s Strandveld menu showcases a selection of seasonal, indigenous ingredients specific to the coastal location. There’s only seating for 20, so you need to book early if you want to experience this innovative culinary experience.
But don’t panic if you can’t get in. There’s plenty of other exceptional dining to be found. We start our stay with lunch at Gaaitjie on the beach and tuck into the very best seafood (oysters and Masala prawns are a must). Leeto is another favourite with more fabulous views and a menu that consistently offers cleverly constructed dishes of deliciousness. I don’t think I can ever visit Paternoster without dining at these two exceptional establishments. And nor should you.
There’s a lovely (newish) waterfront area to visit that’s home to boutique shops selling handmade jewellery, clothing, striking local pottery, and souvenirs. Here you’ll also find coffee shops, restaurants and bars and even a theatre. See, it’s a surprising little town. One that draws you in and grabs a
little piece of your heart. Well, it certainly has done that to me.
That first view of sleepy Paternoster never fails to bring tears of happiness to my eyes. I see blue skies, happy days, and great restaurants on the horizon. And beach baby time with my toes in the sand and salty breezes on my face. I can’t wait to be sitting on that seaside veranda again, listening to the crash of the waves and anticipating another fabulous Paternoster day.
Where to Stay
Top End
The ultimate in luxury by the sea
www.strandloperocean.com
Mid-range
The Paternoster Hotel
www.paternosterhotel.co.za
Superb Value
A great selection of properties to rent
www. stayinpaternoster.co.za
Recommendations for Eating and Drinking
Drinks Stops
Seekombius https://www.seekombuis.co.za/
The Panty Bar (there’s a story to hear)
https://paternosterhotel.co.za/how-did-it-become-the-panty-bar/
The Jolly Roger https://www.jollyrogerwc.co.za/
Restaurants
Gaaitjie www.gaaitjie.co.za
Leeto https://www.leetorestaurant.com/
The Noisy Oyster https://www.facebook.com/noisyoysterpaternoster/
Wolfgat https://www.wolfgat.co.za/
Die See Kat (it means The Octopus) https://www.facebook.com/deseekat
Blikkies Pizzeria https://www.blikkie.co.za/